Saturday, August 21, 2010

I have a Chrysler PT Cruiser that is giving me fits.?

Question 1
I have a Chrysler PT Cruiser that is giving me fits.?...  It is a 2003 and it runs good first thing for about 10 min. and then it will bog down making it hard to even get to about 20 mph. I have repalaced a boat load of sensors and parts but nothing seems to be working. When you rev the engine and you get to about 3500 rpm the engine will pulse up and down about 500 rpm untill you let up. Help please....
Had the catalitic converter and the oxygen sensors checked and they were fine. Was told by the folks who checked them that it was the computer. Changed the computer and no difference. We have changed the coil, the crankshaft sensor the comshaft sensor the battery temp sensor the alternator the battery. what else can I do?
pulled the codes from the computer and there were none, and my mechanic is working for free.

1)   Have a helper bring the RPM up to about 2000 RPM. Go to the exhaust and see if you have a good flow comming out of the tailpipe. I wonder if you have a clogged catalytic converter. That is a good possibility. You said the engine wont rev over 3500? Is that in neutral or Park? There is a rev limit that protects the engine that will not let you go over a set RPM in park. That sounds like a normal condition but I can be wrong. - Mike J

2)   You didn't run leaded gas in it did you? From everything your saying my first guess is that the Catalytic Converter is clogged. Try dropping the manifold, fire up the engine & see if it will run past 3K. I know thats gonna set off all kinds of trouble codes but that exhaust is a welded system & you can't break it with out cutting a pipe. If the engine revs past 3k put it back together & cut the cat out. - Kracker

3)   save yourself a lot of work and go to an exhaust/muffler shop and they can test your converter(s) - tronary

4)   You can get the freaking codes from the computer and figure out what the problem is... Or you can keep throwing money at it and pray to the almighty chrysler car God (some Canadian dude).

Ever get the feeling that the mechanic is ripping you off and laughing at you? Guess what!?! He's either doing that or he's completely incompetent. - Theneelster

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Question 2
Chrysler sebring for a 1st car?...  I am looking into buying my first car. I have looked into Hondas and VW but because they are more "sporty" I can't really afford the insurance for it, I've got my eye on a 2001 Chrysler Sebring. It looks nice and I've been told its safe but I've also been told that its a pretty big engine and therefore its gonna be a lot of money spent on gas. It is a 6 cylinder 2.7L engine and since I don't know much about cars I don't know if i'll go broke because of the gas lol. What do you think? Is a Chrysler Sebring a good affordable 1st car?

1)   ? - kid

2)   It is. The turning radius isn't great, but otherwise they're solid. My mechanic told me that the engines in these cars just keep running forever. - monkeydamour

3)   They're not reliable. Maybe the engine is durable, but you're going to be fixing a lot of things. Look for something more reliable. Honda's are the best. A used accord is not "sporty" and has low insurance. Cost of maintenance is a huge factor. If you buy something unreliable, it will affect how much money you have for other things in your life! - oogabooga37

4)   I cannot recommend a 6cyl. Chrysler Sebring as a first car. The 2.7 L engine has some oiling problems and can sludge up and fail. Unless you can be sure that this is a good engine, I do not recommend buying it. I suggest a Chrysler or Dodge Sebring or Stratus with the 2.4L 4cyl. engine. It is much more reliable. - C-Tech

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Question 3
1994 Chrysler New Yorker Help!? IMPORTANT!!?...  I have a 1994 Chrysler New Yorker and i was on the interstate and it quit running for some reason,but the engine still turns over will not start. I was wondering if anybody knew why it had done this,and what i need to do to fix it?

1)   Make sure that it's getting fuel when you're trying to start it and that the fuel pressure is correct , you also need to check for spark too.Really the engine should of come on and there should be a code present or recorded by the comp system so have it scanned if possible or use the ignition to find out the code.Basically if you put the key in the ACC position then turn it as far as the run position do this 3 times and leave it in the run position.The service engine light should start to flash codes and it might flash once then pause then flash twice in a row that be code 12 = sometime within the last 50 starts the battery was disconnected.The last code is code 55 that just states that no more codes are stored or end of cycle.

Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way try those things and get back with the code or results and I'll try to help you more and maybe give you some more precise trouble shooting info too. - helpful bob

2)   There are a myriad of things that could prevent a car from starting -- don't you ever buy the 'fuel - air - spark' bs that people are quick to tell you.

Now, based on what you described, I'd single out three things.

1) Went out of fuel - or fuel pump or filter became defective
2) Ignition coil become defective
3) Timing belt slipped or broke.

Good luck. - Stephon

3)   You don't mention what engine is in it, but if it is the 3.5L V6, you may have a broken timing belt. If it is the 3.3L V6 it may be the crank sensor. A code scanner can help retrieve codes. - C-Tech

4)   IMPORTANT, you need more info, codes, engine info and there are so many things that could have gone wrong that there is no one thing wrong with it and can just be solved with yahoo answers. Cheap is, what cheap gets, take it to a qualified mechanic - rick b

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Question 4
chrysler 300M electrical problems, please help asap?...  I was working on my stereo system by putting a line out converter in and finishing hooking it up and all of a sudden i hear a click and then my dome lights cut off, my power locks stopped working, my horn doesnt work, my trunk wont open unless i go back and use the key. btw the key was not in the ignition as i was doing this. me and my dad checked the fuses and we think they are all good but i will prolly recheck. i just really need someone to tell me what is wrong with it and how to fix it.

1)   BCM fuse or BCM itself.

What does it matter if the key was in the ignition or not. You disconnect the battery every time you touch the electrical or this is what happens. - Theneelster

2)   BCM fuse is usually labeled IOD and is located in the underhood PDC. It is sometimes in a yellow holder that you can pull up to help keep the battery from discharging while the car is in storage. - wondering

3)   You have blown the IOD fuse. Check the fuses under the hood. - C-Tech

4)   I'd recommend that you invest into a 12 volt test probe they run from 7 to over 20 bucks and I'd purchase the more expensive and better quality probe.

You'd ground the clamp negative end to the chassis or ground by the fuse box then turn on the ignition place it in the run position.The standard plastic fuse has to metal points at each end use the tip of the probe to touch each end of every fuse and most of the fuses should light up the probe at both ends and if they only lite up on one side of any fuse more then likely that fuse is faulty but note just why I say most fuses bec a fuse in the headlight switch output circuit will only light up at both ends if the headlights are in fact turned on.Example say fuses 12 and 11 are for high beams those fuses won't light up the test probe at both ends unless high beams are on.

Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way you could of damaged or blown the body control module circuits.Many circuits use one main fuse to feed a few different fuses and that fuse on the chart probably won't even mention all the devices it actually runs via the assorted attached fuses.You could of blown what we call a circuit breaker and be sure you read the fuse chart carefully or read the owners manual so you know and you can test the circuit breaker by popping it and using a ohms meter , also fuses can be tested this way but due to many vehicles having factory or otherwise security systems or features either for the stereo or ignition etc be careful and have the security procedures or radio codes handy if you pop out fuses etc.

Remember that even a fuse under the hood could of blown bec many fuses under the hood also feed the fuses inside the vehicle. - helpful bob

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Question 5
2002 Chrysler overheating?...  my Sebring 2.7 has been overheating I have replaced the thermostat and the cooling system sensor but it is still overheating and air is getting into the cooling system when I drive it. The mechanic that I had looked at it noticed that the radiator was hotter towards the top then the bottom was, he thinks the radiator is clogged. Can anyone shed some light on this situation?

1)   Unfortunately, 2.7 is not a great quality engine, but with that cooling problem, your mechanic is giving you the right diagnosis, with proper old style, common sense methods. There's a slight chance of getting a lucky break, if it is just your radiator cap that is faulty. - Van Bo

2)   There maybe some kind of debree in between your radiator and AC condenser. I would take out the radiator and clean it. - Kevin

3)   The symptom's sound like the water pump may be leaking. That wound cause the air to get into the system. if your car is under 70,000 miles it nay still be covered under warranty. Good luck. - C-Tech

4)   If air is getting into the system then there's a leak somewhere...that means the system is not pressurized.

Does your "mechanic" need an invitation? Pull the friggin radiator hoses and run water through it and see what happens. - Theneelster

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