Sunday, July 10, 2011

I drive a 2003 pt cruiser I just got the check engine light?

Question 1
I drive a 2003 pt cruiser I just got the check engine light?...  Car runs great but the check engine light flashes somestimes like when ur waiting for food in a drive through & i took to a mechanic all he said that the odb 2 read "PISTON 1" & then he said dont worry about there is nothing wrong i just want to know what u guys think?

1)   check engine lights sometimes come on just as a reminder to take your car in for service after so many miles

if you were told everything was fine, instead of being charged for more work, then you should be ok - John

2)   A flash is for a misfire. There is something wrong about a "don't worry" response to that.

Find a better shop. - alfredb1979

3)   well if this was a mechanic you trust then believe him, if you are worried there is a problem, take it to another mechanic, I garuntee you will find one happy to start slapping on parts needlessly and charging you happily for every dime he can. The choice is yours not mine its your car its your money what are you going to do? - roger

4)   I wouldn't listen to that mechanic. Get a second opinion.Most times the check engine light comes on for something very minor, like a gas cap that wasn't tightened, or possibly an oxygen sensor. Most of the common codes are related to governmental emissions control systems, and don't cause any severe damaged, but should still be addressed because they can cause a decrease in performance, and over time will likely get worse. Others are more severe, and require more immediate action to be taken. A FLASHING check engine light, IS an indicator of such a problem. If this mechanic said it was piston number 1, I'm assuming that you have a severe misfire in that cylinder, and it may damage your catalytic converter if not fixed.

Get it checked out. Don't listen to him. If there was really nothing wrong, you wouldn't have the light on in the first place, would you? ;) - paul

5)   It sounds like the mechanic knew that you've somewhat of a misfire in cylinder no1 and I'd probably recommend that you have any shop scan it for you.If you've not done a tune up in awhile I'd perhaps start with that.

Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way listen to the engine and when it's cold started feel the engine bec any misfire should be able to be heard and felt. - helpful bob

_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________
Question 2
Car repairs? chrysler sebring?...  2001 Chrysler Sebring will not start on first 2 tries but 3rd time it starts. It wants to start but almost as if I gotta build the gas up .. Odd , is it the fuel pump

1)   My friend has an older sebring... her starter went out.. sounds like the same thing.. my jeep is doing it too now. I would say yes probably the fuel pump, but take it to a dealer ship in town, and just talk to someone about it. - Zachary

2)   If the car turns over: IE starting but not cranking... the starter is working fine.

Usually, when the car takes a few attempts to start or takes an unusually long starting time to crank, it is a cam/crank sensor or possibly fuel pump. If it is trying to detect timing but can't, it will default to ECM programming. You can confirm or eliminate it being a fuel check ball (which holds the fuel in the line) by turning the key to on but not starting the car. Listen for the fuel pump whine. You may or may not hear it. Waiting a few seconds should prime the line with pressure. If it starts and runs, it isn't the fuel pump itself. If it doesn't take a few attempts to start, it may be loosing fuel pressure when the car sits a bit.

I'm betting more on a sensor. Is there a check engine light? - SG

3)   It maybe fuel pressure or fuel pump related but if the cables/wires going to the battery/alternator/starter/starter ground/engine block ground posts are loose or have any rust or corrosion that could cause the problem too.

What I'm wondering is if this happens more when the vehicles sits over night or sits awhile bec that could be the battery having bad/dead cells or it not being able to hold a full charge.Otherwise the starter/starter solenoid/starter relay could be weak or or faulty they can cause starting problems too.

There are several things that can cause starting issues one being the fuel pressure, weak battery, faulty charging system, faulty starter, it may require a tune up or a sensor such as the crankshaft or cam sensor , etc.

One thing you could do is leave the key in the run position a few mins before trying to start it and if that makes it start up a lot easier then the fuel pressure is probably the problem.Another test is try starting up the vehicle with the tank fairly full and try it at different tank levels.If it always wants to start up with more fuel in the tank this again leads to a fuel pressure, faulty fuel pump issue.

Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I'd recommend checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, have a parts store or shop conduct some free tests on the starter/battery and charging system, plus ask them if they can scan the system via the data port and the proper scanner. - helpful bob

4)   Must be the battery, or engine. Have it checked by a mechanic. If you don't trust any mechanic, you could diagnose it yourself.

I have a Sebring as well. Engine is Lxi 2.7L. You can ask here what might seem to be the problem. - Dick Bennett

_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________
Question 3
My 94 plymouth voyager turns off when I make a stop light?...  

1)   Have the crank position sensor (CPS) checked. - Billy Jacked

2)   There are a lot of different things such as the crankshaft, camshaft, MAP sensor and even a faulty coolant temperature sensor can cause installing issue.If the engine requires a tune up or the fuel/gas mixtures are wrong the idle would be off and you should be noticing it when the engine is idling and when you're driving.For example the idle is a bit too low or you've a loose belt both can cause stalling problems especially when trying to stop.Performing a basic tune up, changing/checking the air filter, replacing the fuel filter, checking all the plug wires, vac hoses/vac lines/vac junctions, treating the fuel system, checking the belt, belt tension and belt tensioner.Note those tension pulleys are known to have problems, also check the ignition coil spark plug connections make sure their clean, the ignition housing should be checked for any signs of internal over heating such as cracks/bulges/discolouring.

Even rust and corrosion or loose connections at the battery/alternator/starter/engine block ground posts can cause stalling issues and you might want to over haul and clean these wire connectors and connections.

Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way you may want to get a free scan done at a parts store or shop or pull the codes yourself via the ignition.If you have the key in the Aux position then put it in the run position , go back to the aux position then run and back to aux then to the run position and leave it there.When you see the engine light flash once then pause and flash twice in a row that is code 12 and it's related to the battery being disconnected lately, code 55 means end of the stored codes.Note check anything that is related to the EGR valve and vac lines etc, plus try cleaning the throttle body with throttle body cleaner spray. - helpful bob

3)   EGR valve dirty caked with soot

fuel filter clogged

idle control sensor

take some carb cleaner to those port. try cleaning those parts first.Dont spray directly into
the parts you take off clean with cloth. (try EGR first)

If no changes start replacing parts - Mike D.

_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________
Question 4
1996 chrysler concord starts up then dies?...  replaced idle control valve, checked fuel pump relay, checked fuel filter

1)   Check your TPS and MAF. If it dies slowly you might need a new fuel pump check for pressure. - Domgod

2)   The throttle position sensor could be causing that problem or you may have a fuel pressure issue.Here's a basic test that you can perform there is a valve on the fuel rail this is the fuel test pressure port, take the cap off and then use a key etc and push down on the valve.If gas comes gushing out you know at least that fuel is getting to the fuel rail , you can do this test with the gas pressure regulating valve on the fuel rail, simply remove it, and see how much gas comes gushing out.Normally you'd place a rag below the pressure valve or test port before releasing the pressure or removing the pressure valve , the pressure valve should have gas gushing out for a few seconds then gas still runs out a bit for it stops.If little gas comes out then you know that the problem is not enough fuel pressure.

Normally if a sensor like the TPS or MAP sensor etc is faulty the ECM should have detected the error and the engine light should of come on as well as the ECM should have a stored error code.Sometimes the engine light won't come on but there are stored codes so my suggestion is use the ignition and check for any codes.If you turn the key to the run position then to the AUX position then back to run then back to AUX then to run and leave it there you should see the engine light start to flash.The light may flash once then pause and flash twice in a row this is code 12 = battery was disconnected within the last 50 starts, if you see code 55 that means end of the stored codes.

Hope that helps and best of luck. By the way what engine is in your car? I've fixed many problems on all sort of makes and models of vehicles especially cars like yours in fact I own one like your car.Those have many problems and one is poor wiring, another is problems with inner tie rod bushings and problems with the ECM.I've the original factory service manual and schematics/diagrams etc and if you want any more help or advice feel free to contact me. - helpful bob

3)   giving it gas before it dies doesn't make difference?

then its electrical

your coil pack went bye bye - Mike D.

_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________
Question 5
What is the fuel economy on a 66 Plymouth Fury III?...  I found a Fury III going to training today for $4500 and am contemplating getting it. The biggest question is what the fuel economy for it is. Also some suggestions to make it better would be appreciated :)
Edit: Yes, it has a V-8 under the hood, yet only has 33k miles on it. It is in excellent condition (for its age).

1)   Depends on the engine. Most probably a gas guzzling V-8 with 200 k or more, in which case you'd be lucky to get 10 mpg. Those engines were also designed to run on leaded gas, which is hard to find these days. It will get even worse gas mileage on unleaded. - Valor D

2)   It's a great classic. It is NOT a daily driver. Fuel mileage should not be one of your concerns. - Dennis

3)   In 1966 premium leaded fuel was 30-35 cents a gallon and fuel mileage was not a consideration in the selling of a new car, long, wide and quad headlights were the order of the day.

The Fury III is a large car and will not handle like cars built today, probably has drum brakes and no intermittent wipers, may have AC. However they were nice riding cars and had engines up to 440 cubic inches (available late in the model year), most were equipped with 318 or two barrel 383 engines.

This would not be a good everyday driver if fuel mileage is a consideration. If I were to purchase this vehicle, I would install a 383, if not already equipped with one, heads with hardened valve seats, an aluminum dual plane intake with a well tuned 600 CFM carburetor, early '70's "Magnum" cast iron exhaust manifolds and true dual mandrel bent exhaust system no smaller than 2 1/2 inches in diameter.

Visit click cars, click Plymouth, click Fury 1955-1974 for photos and more info. - Don't know everything !

_____ powerd by Yahoo!Answers ________

No comments:

Post a Comment

Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.