my pt cruiser is leaking a lot of oil. The deepstick doesn't show any water in the oil so I figure it must be?
a broken gasket, but which one. It's really hard to tell where the oil is coming from.
Asked by: samro7005 @ 2009-07-28 15:59:45
Answers :: get under the car and tighten up all the bolts you can find
First place to check is always the drain plug. I can't tell you how many times I've heard of the plug not being tightened all the way after an oil change, then it vibrates looser and looser over the next few days or weeks then...bam! oil leak.
Get a can of rear bearing and gasket sealer and hope that it seals the leak.Otherwise,you may as well rebuild or replace the engine.
likely places are the valve cover, oil pan, front or rear seal...
if the top of the motor isn't oily , it's likely to be the pan or seals , not the valve cover....
take the car to an EZ Lube and ask them if they can check to see where the leaks are coming from. It will be at the front or rear main seal, valve cover or oil pan gaskets, or drain plug.
2009 chrysler aspen hybrid ?
Asked by: Kavinth @ 2009-07-27 17:22:09
Answers :: huh?
Its a Dodge stay away lol
complete shit. don't buy
I'm interested in the regular Aspen
Production was suspended in 2008. It probably won't be put back into production. The Denali, Cadillac and BMW, big suv's share the same system.
the code for a radio in a chrsyler neon 03?
Asked by: Chad 22 @ 2009-07-27 16:18:52
Answers :: What kind of radio?
there is no code for that radio. its plug and play
it's in the guidebook manuel thing
If you mean sales code for the radio (RES, RBQ, REN, etc..), take the VIN of the vehicle to your local Chrysler dealer and they can run it through the computer. If you mean the security code, Chrysler doesn't do that.
Where can I get insurance for my 1972 Barracuda that has alterations to inhance speed in Michigan?
Asked by: Heather G @ 2009-07-27 09:47:59
Answers :: Visit a website like http://www.AutoInsuranceEstimate.info and you will get a quote from all the different insurance companies.
make use of the SE like google or yahoo to get some ideas first if you want to get the massive information,however if you do not want to spend so much time,here
is a direct and good resource for your questions.
autoinsurance.undonet.com - try this one. I have their car insurance and, as I know, they can provide such a service.
I'm a 20 year old Mopar buff and I recently found the car of my dreams on the side of the road for sale. It's a black 1971 Barracuda dressed up to look like a Cuda with a 440 big block, pistol-grip 4-speed, side exit pipes, etc. It's one of the meanest cars I've ever seen.
It's $20,000 which is a complete steal, so I'm thinking about taking out a loan and buying the car cause it's such a rare opportunity. The funny thing is, I'd need to sell my current car to afford it so it would be my daily driver until the cold weather comes (I live in MN).
One of my concerns is overheating. Do you think a muscle car would do OK in regular traffic? I don't commute that much, just about 40 min each day and usually I'm not sitting in traffic for too long. Why do muscle cars overheat in traffic? Is it because the fans don't cool very well until the engine is accelerating? Cause then that could be cured by revving the car in neutral I suppose.
The funny thing is, I bet a '71 Cuda with a 440 4-speed could potentially be a super reliable car. A 440 is just a huge rumpity rump engine that lasts forever, and you can work on older cars yourself.
Asked by: Brosnan @ 2009-07-27 23:22:16
Answers :: man i dont have a clue, i would not drive it in winter to fuck up the beautyness buuuut it souldn't overheat if you put some mobil1 in that puppy, and put a custom intercooler i guess to keep it extra coooooooled. i would buy a cheapass minivan for winter and drive it once spring hits
If I remember correctly the 'Cuda had the exhaust exits in the rear lower cowling beneath the bumper...
The overheating problem is that when at idle and not moving, there isn't much air flow through the radiator. Revving the motor to 1500 will draw more air through the radiator to help keep it cool. A fan shroud will be a huge benefit (if not currently installed). Another option would be to mount electric fan(s) on the radiator to pull air through the radiator.
"The funny thing is, I'd need to sell my current car to afford it so it would be my daily driver until the cold weather comes (I live in MN)."
What the hell do you plan to do this winter? Purchase another car? Keep driving this one?
I don't know about super reliable. There is minimal stuff to go wrong (no electronics), but there is a lot of age on many of those parts. The condition and restoration is a factor on the reliability of the car.
Any old car can be a daily driver, but if it isn't properly taken care of, it will deteriorate faster than a modern car. The reason for that is mostly because moisture has more places to get into the body panels and rot them. Most new cars have better treatment of the inner panels, as well as proficient use of ABS and other materials as body panels where the trouble areas happen for rust.
If you can't keep it in a garage, or out of the road salt, you are taking your hard earned money and throwing it away. That 20K investment will be more like 25K after you pay off the loan in four years, and if you don't take care of the car properly in four years, you may wind up with something that is worth $10K or less.
See if you can get the car but use it as a show or "fun" car only. It makes sense to have a beater for the winter months. What if you do everything right and some jerk slides into your ride? Now you are really screwed!
A 440 4 speed is a tricky thing to drive even on flat wet pavement. You may want to think this whole thing carefully...
As far as the cooling system is concerned, if the car has the proper thermostat and the radiator is in good shape, there should be no problems. That model may or may not have electronic ignition. It was optional on many MOPAR products, but I can't remember if the year was 70 or 71. You'll tell right away when you look on the passenger side firewall and see the ubiquitous module.
I do a lot of older muscle cars for people. overheating can always be a problem. Go with a aluminum radiator and water pump and a bottle of water wetter which you can get at any speed shop. That will do the trick.
But keep the old parts. It will always be worth more with original parts.