Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Windshield Wipers keep streaking on 2007 Chrysler Sebring even after replacement?

Question 1
Windshield Wipers keep streaking on 2007 Chrysler Sebring even after replacement?...  I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring Limited. My wipers started to streak about 6 months ago so I got them replaced with Bosch wipers. They started to streak again after about 2 days. I had the wipers replaced with new ones and same thing happened. So I purchased a different brand again and again I'm have the same problem.
I took the car to the dealer and they ran various tests on the arms and springs and said everything was fine. They put in new wipers and said that solved the problem. I know that's not going to solve the issue.
Does anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening? Winter is here and I really need to get this issue resolved.


1)   If the wiper tension is fine, I suspect that there's a wax or solvent getting on the windshield glass - perhaps from a car wash that also has wax as an option? - LeAnne

2)   clean the windshield good with windex and apply Rainex. get it a auto parts or walmart. - scaramonga

3)   Well, if its not the wipers then its the glass, right? Process of elimination and all that.

I suggest polishing the glass to remove whatever crud is on there. I assume the wipers were not streaking before, then something happened, the wipers started streaking, you started replacing them, and here we are. Sound about right?

Most of the good glass polishes are sold online. I think WalMart offers one called Glass Scrub from a company called Glass Science. You might also want to stop in a few auto parts stores to see if they have a glass polish (I am not talking about Rain X, that is a different product).

Another idea is to polish the glass with Bon Ami cleanser (not the polishing powder). Use a soft terrycloth towel or sponge and plenty of water You'll prolly have to wash the car or rinse off the residue when done. - Uncle Bo

4)   I'd want to know were the new wiper blades treated properly before insulation bec it's vital to use the wipes they give in each package of wipers , this is to clean the rubber and condition it. You could have some factory manufacturing residue on the the windshield or wax etc so you might want to try cleaning the windshield before you try any new wipers.There are different products out there that they sell at Walmart's or Canadian Tire stores etc that are designed to clean glass very thoroughly and they don't cost much more then 10 bucks or so.

Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way be sure you don't mistakenly buy the stuff for plastic bec this stuff is sold to use to clean glass or plastic headlight or fog lights etc.If you want a cheaper cleaner mix water and vinegar that will clean well too, plus you might want to go over the windshield and any other glass on that vehicle more then once to be sure. - helpful bob

5)   You have a oil build up on your windshield. What you need to do is clean your glass with a NON abrasive cleanser, like Bonami or Bartenders assistant, use the cleanser with lots of water and gently scrub in circular motion and clean glass and rinse with a lot of water and then repeat. cars and especially big rigs dump a lot of oil out the tail pipe and crank case ventilation, and gets on your glass, those bosch blades are great but will not get the grease and oil off your glass - rick b

6)   Sprayed any wax on your windshield at the car wash lately? - doane_nut


Question 2
Engine block crack ! Pt Cruiser, Chrysler did not know because they did not go that far to check it out ? HELP?...  I added a question earlier this week, car overheated- never red lined !! took to dodge because of oil in radiator, they replaced - radiator, water pump, hoses, housing (thermostat), resurfaced heads, 2-cylinders honed out, new head gaskets and all fluids - now not 3 weeks later the car is back at Dodge and they stated that they did the Magnaflux test and did not find a crack in the engine- he thinks that this happened after they performed the work they did.
What causes engine cracks ? an mechanics out there ? please help ! they are now telling me I need a new block, crack was not detected and of course charging me out the a-- !!!
Please email me at with questions or any advise you may have for me .. did they make a mistake ? Or not ?
I was given a warranty for 12k miles or 1-year, they are telling me that the crack occured after their repair, also they did not check for an engine crack prior. He stated that he knew it was a blown head gasket and that is what Dodge repaired, he stated he had no reason to check for a cracked block.

1)   I hope someone can help you better than I can, but I think it was them. They might have not tightened the head bolts in the correct sequence or correct torque which could cause a crack. Also someone might have missed a previous crack when they did the Magnaflux possibly and thought it was okay. I never take my car to the dealer unless I have too. They overcharge EVERYTHING. I really cant imagine your block just happening to crack after all that work so try to fight the costs as much as possible. Good Luck!! - Nicholas

2)   If it was fixed under warranty, I would think they will do it correctly again under warranty. - done wrenching

3)   You should have been sold a long or short block reman and even if not, they should have some type of basic warranty for their repairs and in my opinion they screwed up - rick b

4)   This is just too messed up to comprehend - how can oil get into the radiator? hmmm. Has oil gotten into the radiator after the initial engine repair? Why has the car returned to the dealer? There's something I don't know about here. And about over heating - that alone can do damage - not red lining an engine isn't going to prevent problems if it overheats. For a crack to develop would really require a rapid thermal contraction of the metal, like if the engine had overheated, and someone were to put room temperature water on it to cool it off. - Ryan M

5)   well you got 4 stupid answers thats for sure i will e-mail you and help you. Why do you people continue to respond to these when you dont have a clue, and by that I mean the answers these four gave tells me there clueless.


6)   So are they claiming they checked the block when you had the repair? If not, that's the simplest question to ask, if you didn't check the block for cracks, how do you know it didn't have a crack when you did the work? In other words, they need to prove it wasn't cracked when they did the repair. Plus, it is very unusual to check the block for cracks when doing a cylinder head repair.
If they claim they did check it, then they need to show proof that the block was checked, and not just the cylinder head.
There's only a few ways a block will crack, one is from not having the proper coolant mixture, and the water freezing, or if filled with only coolant, the coolant freezing. Freezing point of water is 32 degrees, freezing point of pure coolant is about -10 degrees, freezing point of a 50/50 mix of water and coolant is about -60 degrees (all temps are fahrenheit). If the temp in your area has been lower than any of those points, that could be the problem, but it would also have popped out several freeze plugs when that happened and the engine wouldn't hold any coolant at all.
It can also be caused by overheating, which you should know when it happens by the temp light or gage going way up, and coolant would be steaming out of the overflow. I'm sure you'd know if this happened in the three weeks since. If it did overheat in that time, then they didn't fix the problem correctly, installed something incorrectly, or used a bad part somewhere that caused the overheat condition and the crack in the block, so it's still on them.
It sounds like they screwed up and missed the cracked block and didn't diagnose any further than the head and head gasket since it's a more common problem.
As far as something happening during assembly, it's unlikely that the block would crack from incorrect tightening of the head bolts, the head itself would be more likely to crack from that.
Unless they can prove the crack wasn't there before, they should either reimburse you for the previous repairs or not charge for the new repairs needed since that is now all basically useless work done.
The bad news is they'll probably fight you on this, you may wind up having to take them to small claims court if the price was under your local court limits for small claims, or get a lawyer and sue them if over the limits for small claims. If you go to court, keep all of your receipts and have them with you at court.
If your receipt for the head work doesn't show they checked the block for cracks, they didn't check it since everything should be itemized on the repair order. - bokeboy71


Question 3
What Would Cause Water In A Chrysler Sebring Convertible?...  I have a Chrysler Sebring Convertible and every time there is a a heavy rain, about a gallon of water accumulates on the drivers side floorboard. The top is in excellent condition and this is the only place that water leaks into.

Any ideas as to what's up?

1)   The top, obviously, isn't in as excellent condition as you think. That's the leading problem with convertibles, rain intrusion. Believe me, I know. I've worked on enough of them and have also owned several. However if it's only the floorboard that's getting wet you might have a leak around the cowl, under the windshield. The only way to find out is use a hose and hose down one section at a time until the water comes in. - mustanger

2)   Check the drain outlets in the floor. if they are clogged, water will build-up in the car instead of draining out. There should be a on the right and left, just in front of the rear wheels. Good luck. - C-Tech

3)   Since it's coming in the front, I would check inside the front fenders for a buildup of debris. Leaves and pine needles and esp those maple whirlybird seeds get inside the fenders via the space above the hood, below the windshield wipers.
You can open your door, and look inside the fender. A bent coat hanger can hoe out the debris. Then try to rinse the smaller debris out by pouring water into the area below the windshield, and letting it drain down. Or, you could carefully hose it out after hoeing it out. A shopvac with a very skinny, long crevice tool might come in handy.
Once you have the debris out, there are little creases at the bottom of the fender. These are the drains for water. Make sure they are clear.
All this assumes you park level and that the water isn't traveling forward from the rear. If it's coming from the rear, then you have to clear your drain flaps at the bottom of the area just ahead of the rear wheels. Then you can check below the rear window for trapped debris in the water management trough below the rear window. You will prob have to take out the rear well cover (the thin vinyl fabric cover that the top folds into- it usually unsnaps all around). Vacuum it all out, and be sure to check those rear drains at this point if you haven't already. - GTCturboII

4)   Mine does the same thing. You probably have a leak around the top windowns and the top of the cars convertible top. To test this, the next time it rains tape a peice of plastic over this area. If it is dry after the rain you will know this is where the leak is coming from. - MJ FOREVER LOVED!


Question 4
Doors Lock, Unlock. Lock?...  I have a 1997 Chrysler van with about 106,000 miles on it. Whenever you try to open the door the locks they freakout! They go up and done, locking, unlocking, locking, unlocking, etc.

I've found thought that by going to the passenger side door (in the US the right side) the doors still do this, but not as much. It's easier to open the door, but they still do it.

Can someone tell me what's wrong? How do I fix it?
I pulled the top in the BCM. It kind of fixed the problem, but not completely.

1)   It sounds like one of the door lock solenoids is acting up. It may need re-adjusting. - badbill1941

2)   The door locks on that model are controlled by the Body Control Module which is a common failure on those. When the BCM starts to fail you usually have more symptoms such as erratic operation of wipers and turn signals and headlamps that come on by themselves. Check these other systems to see if they are all working correctly.
Also, you ddidn'tmention if you are using the button on the door or your remote FOB. If it only happens when using the FOB it may be the receiver Even though the BCM controls the locks the receiver antenna for the FOB is built into the PassengerDoor Module. (Don't ask me why.) So if it only happens when using the remote you could have a bad receiver antenna or a weak battery in the FOB.

Best of Luck! - Dave

3)   If this occurs manually and with a remote I'd suspect a bad relay or a bad ground , don't forget to check all the grounds going to the body control module=BCM or the BCM itself is faulty.Some auto parts store will print you out a free BCM pin and function chart for you're vehicle.

Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way if it's been colder in your part of the world lately and now you've this lock problem or it's gotten worse I'd for sure check the wiring , the relays and the grounds but a comp can act up due to extreme temperatures too so again it could be a BCM problem but usually I find if the problem gets worse due to hot or cold extreme temperatures then the wiring is more then likely causing the electrical fault. - helpful bob


Question 5
2002 pt cruiser headlight tail lights door locks and dash lights not working?...  ok i have a 2002 pt cruiser and my brother was driving to the store and when he got back the headlights, tail lights, door lock switch, and thw dash lights do not work. we have checked all fuses and relays and everything there looks fine. so if anyone has a clue i would greatly appreciate it

1)   Does it have a battery and cables? - mustanger

2)   It sounds like the i.o.d. fuse has blown. Look in the fusebox under the hood and double-check the fuses there. Good luck. - C-Tech

3)   IOD wont affect headlamp and tail lamps, if he has been a Chrysler tech for over 10 years he should have known that. There are two real possibilities. One is a Body controller it does control most of these items but what I really think it is is the multifunction switch these are notorious for failures on this car, that's my best educated guess, and to the guy who asked if it had a battery and cables, i say duh. - CURT W


No comments:

Post a Comment

Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.