Thursday, July 22, 2010

what is the difference between a plymouth roadrunner and a GTX?

Question 1
what is the difference between a plymouth roadrunner and a GTX?...  

1)   nothing much one sez RR the other GTX the GTX was a more expensive upgrade while RR was a striped out racer - pedro7of9

2)   The original versions were quite different. The GTX came out in 1966 and the Road runner in 1968. The RR was a "bare bones" coupe with rubber floor mats. The GTX came a lot more "plush" with more insulation and carpeting along with more brightwork trim and such. - Otto

3)   the gtx was a much more lush model. the rr was kind of plain jane. - badbill1941

4)   The name? - Andy


Question 2
stock mopar 360 and stock mopar 440?...  does anyone know how much a mopar 360 and a mopar 440 weigh

1)   It depends what's bolted on them. A good guess for a complete engine with manifolds is 560 for a 360 and 650 for a 440. - D

2)   The 440 is a whopping 670 pounds (remember this is an RB engine) to the 360's demure 560 pounds. These figures are based on engines with all iron manifolds and water pumps less bellhousings. - Don't know everything !

3)   I,ll take the extra weight in my car....Nothing is as impressive as a 440...Maybe a 413 wedge or a hemi... - Johnny Rotten


Question 3
P0339 on pacifica will not go away?...  Alright I was getting a P0339 on my 2004 Pacifica, I replaced the sensor but am still getting the code, what next?

1)   Well if i am correct that code is for the ckp sensor (crank sensor) on chryslers you need to replace both crank and cam sensors at the same time. the sensing ground for both of those sensors are the same. so the code can be one or the other. we always replace them in pairs. after doing so you also need to enter the pcm with the chrysler drb3 tool the star scan will work in generic mode as well as star mobile. but that car dose not have can c networking so drb3 is you best tool. and relearn cam and crank tone wheel settings. if you don't do this your timing can be off which will cause the same code to return. or most likely cam or crank out of synch code. there is also a tsb (technical service bulletin) out of that code. it list a no start with erroneous codes that code being one of them. the fix is flashing the pcm with new software. only dealer can do this. and only a dealer can reset cam and crank defaults to relearn the sensors. make sure both sensors are new. then reset cam and crank values and reprogram the pcm with this flash and you will fix the problem. also take a good look at the pins in the connectors. sometimes they can be bent or loose fitting. the way to fix this is the male part of the pins. just bend them slightly one up and down ect. not much at all. you still want it to be able to plug in. but doing this will promise good pressure on the pins wile its connected. also remove the sensor and look inside the hole at the tone wheel. make sure there are no cracks or it isn't bent or damage in any way. good luck! - MrGizmo757

2)   Mr Gizmo answered it exactly correct. Do exactly what he suggests. - Mike J

3)   Mr.G is right. I have run into this problem before. When the codes were burned into the computer, sometimes they get the 'crank' and 'cam' fault codes switched and you end up replacing the good one instead of the bad one. And it's embarrassing. - Jackolantern


Question 4
Chrysler running rough?...  I have a 2006 Chrysler Town and Country 3.3l. The check engine light is on and I am getting P2308 error code. The Parts store print out says this is an erratic signal from the ignition coil secondary circuit.
The probable causes are:
1.Faulty spark plug or coil boot or 2.Failed ignition coil.
The van is running rough, Has a rough idle, Hesitation, Sputtering, Excessive engine vibration.
I replaced the spark plug wires a month ago. I replaced the coil and the spark plugs today.
The van is still running rough any suggestions?

1)   Checking the gap on the spark plugs is important. Also, on new wire sets, the boots sometimes work against the lugs and don't let them make a good "snap" connection to the plug - especially when they heat up. Make sure the lugs are well fastened to the plugs.

Auto parts stores sell a handy tool that is an inductive probe for diagnosing ignition issues. You can run the probe near the wires while the engine is running, and it shows you if it's firing or not. The tool is not that expensive, and it's a great diagnostic aid.

Worst case scenario - the engine computer controls the ignition module on a lot of cars. This is how the "dwell" and timing adjustments are made based on other sensor inputs. I don't think this is your problem, but keep this in mind. Ignition modules are no longer autonomous components like they were back in the day. - Delamothe

2)   I totally agree with the previous answer and be careful of pre-factory set spark-plugs bec many times their not properly gapped for your specific engine.This is one reason why I always double check every spark plug before installing them.

Hope that helps and best of luck. By the way when the code indicated a secondary coil error that part of the coil is what gives off the spark and it's not impossible or uncommon for even brand new coils to be faulty, so you might want to try another coil.Another thing that you can do is find out what resistance readings should be for both the primary and secondary windings on the coil. You can compare the two coils you have the new and old and see what readings you get with a ohms meter.Most of the bigger chain parts stores can print out such info for you or you can look at their sites under your vehicle , under serving and repair manuals etc. - helpful bob

3)   The only thing I can come up with, without looking under your hood, is that maybe you have a carbon track left behind by a spark jump before you changed the wires. Secondary refers to the high voltage (spark) side of the coil, so that means your problem is with the coil if you have replaced the plugs and wires. One very reliable way to know is to crank the engine at night in the dark and put it in gear and with your foot on the brake and give it some gas to make it miss and have someone look for a tell-tale spark jumping to ground at or around the coil. One other note, beings you say you replaced the coil, Is the possibility that the secondary (high voltage) could have taken out #2 driver in the engine controller. We were always advised by Chrysler not to disconnect the plug wires from the coil or plugs under any circumstances while the engine was running because the high voltage could find the drivers in the controller an easy ground and knock it out by traveling down the primary wire into the controller and shorting out the low-side driver for that particular coil. Any spark jumping is a high voltage build up of excessive voltage looking for a ground. Any available ground and anywhere. And it can take out a lot of soft ware in a very short time. - Jackolantern


Question 5
can you switch the a/c out of a ford to a chrysler van?...  Have a 95 ford taurus with ice cold a/c, the car is finally crapping out. Also have a 98 chrysler mini van with hot a/c. Is there any way to switch them out?

1)   No - C-Tech

2)   NO - chester

3)   Oh honey, that would be a hell of a lot of work. The wiring the sensors and then nothing would fit. No it is not feasible. You know your a redneck if. - Donny


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