I am thinking of buying a 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser and would appreciate any comments on them,...?

Question 1
I am thinking of buying a 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser and would appreciate any comments on them,...?...  ...both pro & con
I will be trading in my car this year and am considering buying a 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser (sedan model) with Automatic Transmission. I have already test driven one and found them to bo comfortable to drive and to have good driver visibility (few blind spots)

I would appreciate your comments, good & bad, on PT Cruisers, such as... are you happy with yours? Reliability, Gas Mileage, Repair costs, Handling, Winter driving (I am in Western NY), Recalls, disappointments

Thanks in advance

Answers
1)   there is nothing good to say about pt cruisers - just about anything else is better - alex

2)   My son-in-law bought the same year PT Crusier with low mileage. It was a mechanical nightmare. Look on the road. You will see very few of them. - Norma

3)   have owned one since 2003 gas mileage not so good everything else no problems just routine maintenance live in CT no problem with snow - pickmefirstplz

4)   I have had a 2005 PT Cruiser for about a year and a half now. I love it!
It is very comfortable, and I like the fact that although the car appears to be low to the ground, the seating is actually rather high. It's much easier to get in and out of then many low riding cars. We have been on several trips in the Cruiser and it was very comfortable, even at long distances. Even the back seat is comfortable. The ride is relatively smooth, even at higher speeds.
Gas mileage is so-so...about 20 mpg or so. I guess not too bad, except at today's high gas prices!
Handling is good, and haven't experienced any problems with winter driving. I'm near Chicago IL and we have some pretty snowy, cold winters.
As for repairs, I can't really answer that because I haven't had to have any. So that would also answer the reliability question: So far I would judge the PT Cruiser to be very reliable!
I hope you enjoy yours as much as we are enjoying ours :) - quintic

5)   I liked the look of the PT but I did find that the engine seemed to be
under powered for the size of the car.

I don't know if this has been improved or not

I also used to live in upstate western New York
and found that I had a lot more control in a car with
a manual transmission. You get better handling and much better
gas mileage.

At the moment I am driving an older (98) Ford Escort with manual 5 speed
and am getting 34-37 mpg - illegitimacy

6)   PT Cruiser offers great gas mileage and is fun to drive. It has a big engine for a compact car and offers great handling. All at a low price tag. It doesn't, however, offer the greatest looks, in my opinion, the wheels are small and car looks too retro for my taste. Like many other Cryslers, it is very reliable, much more reliable than any Fords or GMs. It is not the best car to have in the winter, since the small wheels don't have the greatest traction, but you can always get winter tires. - encroach

7)   If you listen to no one else please listen to me!
I am a prefessional automotive technician and lead tech in a Chrysler Dealership.
You DO NOT want a PT cruiser!
I am very proud of most of the Chrysler products I see and work on every day but that is the one mistake even I wish Chrysler had never made. They were poorly designed in the Neon body and then wrapped in the PT body which just makes repair costs double or tripple. Just Junk!
The 2.0 L engine is prone to ring siezure for no reason and the 2.4L cant not leak oil. Both have the 42RLE Trans which has a MAJOR history of solenoid pack failure which is NOT cheap to fix.
Worst of all they made the whole damn car so hard to work on that repair costs are astronomical compared to similar vehicles. I charge 8 hours just to change an A/C compressor in one of those, it 's usually 1 to 2 hours in a normal car. All Chrysler mechanics HATE PT's and I reallly hope you look for a different vehicle.
Best of Luck - Dave

8)   *2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser Highlights*
Minor styling revisions mark Chrysler's retro compact for 2006. PT Cruiser comes as a five-passenger 4-dr wagon and as a four-seat 2-dr convertible with a power-folding soft top. Wagons come in base, Touring, Limited, and GT versions; convertibles in base, Touring, and GT guise. All have 4-cyl engines of 150, 180, or 220 hp, depending on model selection. The 180- and 220-hp engines are turbocharged. Automatic transmission is standard on 180-hp models; others offer manual or automatic. The GT's automatic includes a manual shift gate. ABS is standard on GT, optional on others. GTs add traction control and sport suspension. Front side airbags are standard on Limited and GT, optional elsewhere. Curtain side airbags are unavailable. All '06 PTs have revised front fascias and dashboards.

*Competition*
Consumer Guide® Automotive places each vehicle into one of 17 classes based on size, price, and market position. Compact Cars comprise the smallest passengers cars. These vehicles range from tiny economy models to slightly larger, popularly priced sedans, hatchbacks, and wagons.

Our Best Buys include Chrysler PT Cruiser, Honda Civic, Mazda 3, and Pontiac Vibe/Toyota Matrix twins. Our Recommended picks include Chevrolet Cobalt, Ford Focus, Hyundai Elantra, Kia Spectra, and Toyota Corolla.

New or significantly redesigned models include Chevrolet HHR, Hyundai Accent, Kia Rio, and Volkswagen Golf and Jetta.
News
A fully redesigned PT Cruiser is now expected for model-year 2008 or '09. It's likely to be a retro-style reskin of the 2007 Dodge Caliber sportwagon, which should mean identical powerteams, including a possible first-time all-wheel-drive option. No word yet on the convertible, but we expect it will take a brief vacation, then return by 2010.


2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser Road Test
Pros Cons

Acceleration (turbos) Acceleration (nonturbo w/automatic transmission)

Passenger and cargo room


Consumer Guide® Road Test Ratings
Acceleration

Limited, auto. GT wagon, man. GT wagon, auto. Touring conv, turbo Class Average
4 7 7 6 4.4

Base engine fine for around-town cruising, but weak on hills or in highway passing. Base manual-transmission wagon did 8.9 sec 0-60 mph; automatics are significantly slower. Little lag noted in turbo models, which are stronger at all speeds; expect about 7.0 sec 0-60 with GT wagon. Automatic transmission responsive, despite some lurching downshifts.
Fuel Economy

Limited, auto. GT wagon, man. GT wagon, auto. Touring conv, turbo Class Average
5 4 5 5 6.7

Test 150-hp wagons averaged 18.5-23.0 mpg with automatic transmission, 18.3-22.1 with manual. With 180-hp turbo, wagon averaged 19.5 mpg, test convertible 18.0. Test GT wagon with manual averaged 17.2 mpg, 19.0 with automatic. GT convertible averaged 16.1 mpg. Chrysler recommends 91-octane fuel for 220-hp turbo, 87 octane for other PT engines.
Ride Quality

Limited, auto. GT wagon, man. GT wagon, auto. Touring conv, turbo Class Average
6 6 6 6 4.9

All models easily absorb most bumps. Limited's slightly tauter suspension feels more controlled over freeway dips and humps. GT suspension and tires firmer still, provide more road feel without undue stiffness. Convertible feels less prone to body flex than many four-seat droptops.
Steering/Handling/Braking

Limited, auto. GT wagon, man. GT wagon, auto. Touring conv, turbo Class Average
6 7 7 6 5.6

Good grip in turns from 16- and 17-inch tires. Fast corners induce noticeable body lean, but no tippiness. Steering responsive. Manual-transmission versions suffer mild torque steer--unwanted pulling to side--in fast acceleration. Wide turning circle frustrates low-speed maneuverability. All models tested had ABS, with strong stopping power, good pedal feel.
Quietness

Limited, auto. GT wagon, man. GT wagon, auto. Touring conv, turbo Class Average
5 4 4 4 4.2

Coarse pavement induces some road roar. Wind rush starts to intrude at 65 mph. Convertible only slightly noisier top up, and fairly calm top down. Engine in all versions never really sounds smooth, is coarse above 4000 rpm.
Controls/Materials

Limited, auto. GT wagon, man. GT wagon, auto. Touring conv, turbo Class Average
6 6 6 6 5.9

Restyled instrument panel carries on retro theme, contemporary ease of use. Hard plastics abound but don't look cheap. Odd dashboard-mounted power-window switches continue; convertibles add a handy "all up/all down" button. Available UConnect wireless cell phone link easy to use, allows drivers to keep both hands on steering wheel.
Room/Comfort/Driver Seating (front)

Limited, auto. GT wagon, man. GT wagon, auto. Touring conv, turbo Class Average
6 6 6 6 5.5

Just adequate head room for tall drivers, despite high body build. Chair-height seats comfortable. Seat-mounted pull-down center armrests replaced by conventional console box with built-in armrest, which is more convenient. Wide doorways allow simple step-in entry. Clear outward sightlines in wagon, though rear headres - unwonted


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Question 2
96 chrysler lhs fuel pressure regulator or what i dont know?...  what should i do i have a 96 chrysler lhs and sometimes it starts and other times it just cranks and when it just cranks gas shoots out of a line in the front of the engine some 1 told me it maybe a o ring another said the fuel regulator and fuel rail but on the days when it starts it takes 5 mins for the gas to shoot out what should i replace?

Answers
1)   There was an issue with those O rings leaking in the fuel rail, a recall came out that replaced the o rings and the rail if needed, I think it was the right side (your left if you are in front of the car), there was danger of the car catching fire. Call the dealer or look in the internet for the recall. You do not have to pay when a recall is performed. Good luck - class4

2)   It seems that you may have a leaky fuel rail. It may be rust, it may be an o-ring (or 2). Check with a dealership, it may be covered under a recall, if not, expect about a $300-400 bill. - C-Tech

3)   if it has a 3.5l engine the fuel rail should be under recall for the life of the car call your dealer. - Steve

4)   u should try cleaning ur fuel filter or try some gas treatment - Kevin

5)   the fuel rail cracks, it is a composite type material, there was or still is a recall for the fuel rail, call the dealer and give them you cars vin number and they should be able to tell you . - obrienstruck

6)   The LHS will have a 3.5 engine, all LHS's had a 3.5. There was a recall for the fuel rails leaking, it could be from the seals, or from the rail itself being cracked. It sounds like this is your problem, it isn't getting enough pressure to start it on most occasions, instead it is just spraying out of the rail.

Go to your local dealer repair center and have them check it out to make sure it's covered under the recall (if it isn't the rail leaking, it may not be covered). Best thing is to have it towed there, since you don't want it to catch fire while you're driving it -- having fuel spray out creates very good conditions for a fire. Most shops will have it towed for you, but check prices, many will mark up tow charges over what the tow company charges them, some shops have their own towing service and tow for less than local tow companies. Also, if you have tow coverage on your insurance (or a program like AAA or some other insurance for vehicle towing, such as through your cell phone), they'll cover towing charges for you. - Mark B


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Question 3
Whats a cool color blue to paint my chrysler sebring convertible?...  I want to change the color of my car from green to blue but im not sure what shade of blue would look best with a tan convertible top.

Answers
1)   electric Blue or one a those honda blue - Smart

2)   Smart is right on the color, but you had better think long and hard about a repaint, remember that when a car repaint in done in most cases, what you see is what is painted, NOT the inside of the car nor the engine compartment,nor the trunk, that is a lot extra money and blue and green do look weird - rick b

3)   Petty Blue!!!! - Johnny Rotten

4)   i think you should go with like a midnight blue color. that would look real good - dustinb


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Question 4
my 1998 chrystler sebring seat belts dont pull out?...  i bought my car at 50,000 miles and when i bought it from a private seller the seat belts dont work what do i do chrystler told me it will cost 1000 to fix do you think this is a deffect in there vehicle

Answers
1)   are all the seat belts like this? It seems really odd that all the seat belts don't pull out. If all of them are like this, it is more likely they are gummed up with something. This would be the first car I have seen where all the belts just plain don't work. - gearnofear

2)   There may be something that has jammedthe seatbelt. If you can, take the covers off and check the mechanism. If they cannot be repaired, they can be replaced by getting used belts from the junkyard. It is not a defect by Chrysler, but a problem passed on to you by the previous owner. Try another shop, or perhaps a shop that specializes in interiors. Good luck and stay warm. - C-Tech

3)   If both front seats are not working correctly, I would say it's most likely the seat belt timer module has malfunctioned. The first obvious thing to check is to see if there are any blown fuses in the fuse blocks, though it's unlikely to be the problem, it's worth checking.

Also, if the vehicle is parked so it's tilted at an angle of 45 degrees or more, it will keep the belts locked. Unlikely, but also worth mentioning.

The timer module controls the seat belts since they're installed in the seat backs and the seats recline, it turns the locking solenoids on and off. If the solenoids don't get power, they lock up (belt will retract, but won't pull out). It uses the timer to keep from draining the battery, so it cuts power to the seat belts 30 minutes after ignition switch is turned to the off position. or the door ajar switches being activated. The module is located under the rear of the center console.

$1000 is quite a bit high, from what i remember those costing, the module itself should be around $200, plus labor, which shouldn't be anywhere near $800! That would be anywhere from a very expensive 5 hours to a relatively inexpensive 10 hours worth of labor. The total cost should be around $300 to $400 including labor.

Chances are, they're quoting the price to replace both of the front seat belt assemblies, and may not know of this more common problem of the timer module. The seat belts themselves are only about $200 each, but labor is more. If you simply called, they may also be quoting the worst-case scenario so there's no surprises if it happened to need both belt assemblies -- other than a lower than quoted price.

The other possibility is that the wires going to the seat belts have gotten pinched, or broken, what might work in this instance is to move the seats forward or back and see if the belts start working. It's a long shot, but I've seen it happen before.

As far as warranty goes, you could call another dealer if you don't trust the one you already called, or call Chrysler customer assistance at 1-800-992-1997 and ask them. There may be an extended warranty on this part or they may possibly cover it since it's safety related and the belts won't work at all. Chances are probably slim, but it never hurts to ask.


BTW, I would not recommend getting used seat belts out of a junk yard unless that's the only option to get them, such as if new ones are discontinued. I wouldn't want to trust my life to an iffy part that's already (most likely) been in an accident. It's worth the extra money to buy new seat belts and be sure you'll be safe if in a wreck. - Mark B


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Question 5
fuel reset 95 chrystler?...  have a 95 chry v6 that turn over but wont start have checked pump but cant find reset or is there a reset

Answers
1)   There is no reset for the fuel pump. If you are getting fuel to the engine, you could have an air intake or ignition problem. - badbill1941

2)   No re-set button. Install a pressure gage in the fuel line and cycle the key on and off a few times and see if you have pressure. Should have around 30 lbs. (depending on the model year). - Jackolantern

3)   Have you checked for fuel or spark? There is no reset button, but there is an ASD relay that controls both fuel and spark, so if it's gone bad, it won't start since it won't get fuel or spark. (ASD = Auto Shut-Down)

You don't say what kind of Chrysler it is, so it may or may not have an under-hood fuse/relay block (I think it was just the A-body that would have had a V-6 and no fuse/relay block in 1995, A-body was LeBaron Sedan, Spirit, and Acclaim). If it has the under-hood block, take the cover off, and look at the location chart (will either be on the outside or inside of the cover). Look at the chart for the relay, it will be marked with ASD, or Shut Down, then find another relay that isn't a critical component, but has the same number stamped on top (most use the same relay for A/C compressor clutch). Once you find another relay with the same number that you know works, swap them and see if that fixes your problem, if it does, go buy a new relay for about $15 or $20 at the dealer parts counter.

If you have a vehicle without the fuse/relay box, then it will be mounted to the left (driver's side) inner fender. It will not have another one the same to swap, but it should be the furthest forward toward the front of the car. There will be 3 relays on the strut tower, and 3 along the inner fender, if you get no spark or fuel pressure, then buy a new relay and try that, if that doesn't work, then it'll have to be checked out.

If you get spark but no fuel pressure, you will have to have the pump checked to see if it's bad. Easy way to do that is to see if it gets power at the pump. If it gets power but doesn't pump, then you need a new pump. If it doesn't get power, then there's likely a problem with the fuse, wiring, ignition switch, or relay. Best to have it checked out for you at this point unless you have a multimeter (volts and ohms to check for power and continuity), patience, and time to check it all yourself.

Unless you've never changed the air filter, the chances of it being an intake problem are very slim. It's easy to check, open the air filter housing, check the filter to make sure it isn't completely clogged up. If it's new or fairly clean, it should be fine, if you're not sure, try to start it with the air filter out and cover off (don't drive it like this, as dirt and sand particles will be allowed into the engine and can cause damage internally). If it starts, check the intake hoses to be sure there are no rat nests or anything else clogging the air intake hose, if not, then replace the air filter. - Mark B


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