I have a 2000 Chrysler Concorde. When i brake hard or just stop at a stop light the oil light comes on.?

Question 1
I have a 2000 Chrysler Concorde. When i brake hard or just stop at a stop light the oil light comes on.?...  I just got my oil changed and everything. what would cause it?

Answers
1)   check your oil, if it's fine, i would take your car to an auto shop. - H.D

2)   ooooooh

either your oil level is dangerously low

and sucking air in the pump.

or your main engine bearings are worn from high mileage.

the light ......means zero oil pressure!

have that looked at very very soon.....and quit driving it till then.

Do Not Drive That Engine even to the shop with out making sure the oil level is at least correct.

That oil light is a very bad warning sign - "Not today, Zurg!"

3)   First check the oil level. The shop might not have added enough oil.

Second, the oil filter might be leaking and that would cause the light to come on.

Third, it could be a defective oil pressure sensor. I had to replace one on my Jeep.

Hopefully it will be an easy fix. - mindbender - seeker of truth

4)   if oil is full then most likely oil pressure switch or what many call oil sending unit cheap easy to replace - kelly_f_1999

5)   We had a lot of issues with these back then when they got around 50,000 miles and over. First off, there is a bulletin on the wiring going to the oil pressure sending unit which requires you to have a wiring 'pig tail' attached to the original one on the car for that problem. Second, that motor has an aluminum block with the catalytic converters running underneath both sides of the motor and causes the oil in the motor to run hotter than most. The combination of both causes the oil to sludge quicker than most motors. Changing the oil regularly at around 3 to 4 thousand miles keeps sludge at a minimum. You need to take it in to a Chrysler dealer and check for sludge build up on the oil pick-up screen and/or problems with the oil pressure sending unit wiring. - Jackolantern

6)   If it just started after the oil change, then check your oil level. The light could flicker if your idle speed is too low, from a dirty throttle body or shot tuneup components (spark plugs/wires).
Also, if the engine has alot of miles, it could just be losing compression. This would not be a sudden thing. - GTCturboII


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Question 2
what causes excessive oil consumption in my air box on a 1989 chrysler lebaron 2.5 engine non turbo?...  

Answers
1)   Oil consumption in your air box? Sorry, I think you're in over your head. - Robot

2)   turbo needs rework leaking/oil line for cooling and turbo bearings need to be redone - ken k

3)   Plugged pcv valve,worn piston rings or valve seats but more likely to much crank case pressure or pcv means positive crank case ventilation. - Scott W

4)   do you mean oil is coming into the air filter? if it is then check the pcv valve. - bandit_60

5)   This problem was quite common on these cars with the 2.0 and 2.5 engines. The crank case has to breath in and out or it will build up pressure and blow a seal or gasket. So to keep dirt out of the engine, it breathes through a polyester mesh filter in the air filter box and down through a tube attached to the air filter box. The 'blow by' of the piston rings forces crank case vapors to go to the air cleaner box and collect. The more blow by in the engine via the rings, the more oil collected. Make sure the vacuum hose at the PVC valve isn't partially stopped up. This hose also sucks blow by out of the crank case. Ok? - Jackolantern

6)   The most common problem would be blow by due to worn out rings in one or more cylinders. If you check you compression you will find that one or more cylinders is reading in the 60-70 PSI range rather than the normal 120PSI range. At this point I would guess you have about 135K miles on your 2.5 engine and it is due for a rebuild or replacement. I just went through this with my wife's Reliant wagon, although we had the 2.2L engine rather than the 2.5. I replaced it with a 2.5L though and am really glad I did! If you are short on money try using 20-50 oil unless you live up north in the snow zone. The 50 weight racing oil is also an alternative - both being thicker oils they will not run past the rings so fast, but won't stop nor cure it. I run 50 weight in my Jeep with leaking rear main bearing and it helps, I only have to add a quart every 700 miles with the 50Wt whereas with 10-30 I was going through a quart a week.

Start looking for another engine is my advice. - howard


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Question 3
Mopar 318 rebuild questions?...  Several questions. the first is, there's some very small rust pits on the inside of the third and fourth cylinders, maybe .005 or .007 deep. they're deep enough to feel, but honing didn't take care of them. if i got a .020 bore and a hone, can i still use the stock pistons and rings? (ones that are coming with the rebuild kit, of course, not going to reuse the old ones ^_^.)

Also, looking at doing a roller cam conversion. What all goes into that? I'm aware of the new cam and roller lifters, but would I have to do anything on the top end, I.E. new/different valve springs, pushrods, etc?

and one last question, any idea how much an acid bath costs? the engine is a bit dirty and the last guy to have the engine used water as coolant (engine came from a demo car), and i need to clean out the coolant journals. Also a deck mill to level the deck out, and probably a mill on the bottom side of the heads as well to keep it level.

10 points to the best answer, let em roll! :D



more info:
Engine is 318 cid, from a 1988 plymouth gran fury police interceptor.
i've got it torn down to the block already
what parts of the engine can be reused?

Answers
1)   If you bore the block .020 oversize you will need .020 oversize pistons and rings! With the roller cam and lifters I'd also use roller rockers and the cam I'd use will require stouter springs than stock. Stock push-rods will probably be ok but they must be absolutely straight. I believe it cost about 50 bucks to boil the block. I would check the block and heads to see if they are flat or if they need milled. You do realize that milling will reduce the size of the combustion chambers therefore doing so will raise the compression some. Parts to be reused are: heads, block, crank, valves, connecting rods. The valves need to be reground though. And possably the pushrods. Everything else should be new including the oil pump and pickup tube, cam bearings, rod and main bearings, freeze plugs, valve seals+locks, cam, lifters, etc...I hope you marked which rod and main caps go where and each one must be installed the way it came off because they are assembled before final boring. Properly rebuilding an engine cost quite a bit of money especially if you are upgrading like with the roller cam. If this engine is for a common street driver You may just want to put it together with the stock size pistons if the rust pitts are as you say very small and if the cam is not worn out. Like I said properly rebuilding an engine especially if you want more horsepower cost more $$$$$$$$ Hope you enjoy rebuilding your 1st engine. I'm sure it is your 1st or you should have known you can't have someone bore the block .020 over then use stock size pistons. - Jimbob

2)   It sounds like you ought to look into a rebuilt engine from a rebuilding company like Jasper. Or a crate engine from Mopar. You will get more power, spend less money and get a warranty to boot. - Samboe

3)   Eko,
yes you need to bore the engine and go with the .020 pistons with the .020 bore
And yes you can go roller, but you will need to go with heaver valve springs since a HYD. cam valve springs you could run into valve float problems.
And as far as cleaning your blocks water rust you are almost on the right track, you need a shop that still is licensed to have the caustic dip in its tanks to clean the block, you dont want the hot water with chemical wash, that a lot of shops do now to stay EPA compliant. And if you want to get it all perfect, look in to extrude hone to see if they can do the job so your water passages are perfect. And the decking you are talking about is called square. The block is decked so that it is "square" to the center line of your crank shaft.
And before you go to far I suggest you see if you can still get the 9th edition of the Mopar Engines and the Mopar Magnum engines books
If you go to a dodge dealer that sales these or see if Amazon sales then you will be miles ahead.
the part numbers for the books are P524970 and 4876668. Now I paid $25.00 for each book and well worth it, but it may be more now - rick b

4)   As an alternative to Jimbob's comment about new pistons and rings (accurate), you could try cylinder sleeves. The cost of 8 of them might be cheaper than buying 8 new pistons.

Have you given thought to just buying a performance crate engine from Mopar? Sometimes, after you spend money here and there and everywhere on a rebuild, it comes out to be more expensive than a new engine. - Thundercat


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Question 4
my pt cruiser's wheel jiggles @40-60 mph i have changed the rim &all tires balanced the whole 9 need help?...  now i hear a(metal) grinding noise when turning wheels ,the axle on that side (frt. pass)

Answers
1)   the axle shafts have cv joints and they can be loose or the car may have a bad brake caliper and that can cause it - ken k

2)   I suspect you have a bad axle. Check the joints at each axle, may be loose or worn. - C-Tech

3)   *pukes that you bought a PT*

Regardless of what the problem is, there's most likely a fairly cheap fix.
Get yourself an alignment, and if that doesn't fix it ask your mechanic.

If he/she can't help you, then you learned your lesson. :) - Steve

4)   alot of times, especially on the pt cruisers, the front hub bearings will go out causing a vibration and noise, get those looked at and also the cv shaft, but most likely the hub bearings will take care of your problem. - Brian H


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Question 5
I have a 1991 chrysler new yorker fifth ave..?...  I have a 91' chrysler new yorker and in the transmission still woks in reverse neutral and everything else it just sticks in second gear.. Any ideas??
Do you know which fender wall it would be on?

Answers
1)   the transmission is stuck in "limp mode" this is because you lost power to the transmission module "TCM" so check fuses and for power to the module it will be the smaller silver box on the fender wall the other one is the PCM "engine control module" it will be electrical because this transmission is a 4 speed trans and its electronic. without a wire diagram your in trouble a little so try ALLDATA to hopefully get some pics wish I could help more sorry. - JUNIOR B

2)   Big or small 5th?
My guess is either or. a car that old its time to rebuild the trans and if small, then what JR said about limp in mode, yup, but I still would rebuild - rick b

3)   You may find some answers here http://www.allpar.com/fix/index.html, just scroll dow the page. - Don't know everything !


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