Is it safe to by a Chrysler car with the 2.7 engine?

Is it safe to by a Chrysler car with the 2.7 engine?

I hope so I just bought one a 2008 sebring It runs good and seems fine but heard all the horror storys on this engine What should I do to keep it that way ?? Is synthetic oil a must ? and who often do we change it 3000 miles or 5000

Asked by: Ed @ 2009-06-18 06:09:41

[Best Answer]The problem with the earlier 2.7s (in La-men's terms) is the tube with the screen on it that sucks up the oil and sends it throughout the engine is too close to the bottom of the oil pan and if the oil is not changed very frequently (3,000 miles) without ever missing a oil change or even being late the screen starts to suck up the sludge on the very bottom of the oil pan which is where everything including dirt and metal dust which is normal accumulates. The screen is so fine and soon gets clogged and is unable to send the oil to the moving parts of the engine causing it to self destruct. I personally would never own a 2.7 but since you already have it the best piece of advice I could give you is to change, change, change the oil. I also agree with the 3,000 miles. Maybe even sooner if you live on a farm or somewhere where the dust is very heavy or you do a lot of short trips ( starting, short trip, starting, then returning home). The oil doesn't matter as long as you keep it changed. I would think about changing it at 2,500 miles, that way by the time you actually get it in for service there will hopefully be 3,00o miles or less on the car.

By : Allan C @ 1245404155

Answers ::
wel truth is Chrysler cars never been high on list of great cars but you can find by typing into search box

how to care for car

2008 Chrysler sebring maintenance

synthetic oil dont have to use it but it is best oil to use and you can go longer than 5000 some test say over 10,000 miles with it but i change mine at 5000 or about

kelly_f_1999

I'm a mechanic, and I've seen quite a few of the pre 2002 2.7 engines self destruct because people didn't change the oil on a regular basis. The problem is that the oil gets dirty and clogs up a fine oil passage tube that feeds the tentioner for the timing chain. For the most part, oil doesn't matter AS LONG AS ITS KEPT CLEAN. Meaning, change it EVERY 3000 miles. I don't care what the book says, EVERY 3000 miles!!!
Good luck!

mrkbarrera

Yes, change the oil and filter frequently.

done wrenching

Just like said in a previous response, I DON'T CARE WHAT THE MANUAL SAYS, CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER EVERY 3,000 MILES.

I've worked on cars for over 50 years, and always tell people that the most important thing they can do for their car is change the oil and filter religiously every 3,000 miles.

When I was a kid, we didn't have the money for changing the oil and filter. It was hard enough having money for gas.

Whenever we had to work on the car that would require dropping the oil pan, we would dip into it with our hands and lift out handfuls of sludge that was like mud. That crap was constantly circulating through the engine and scaring the cylinder walls and rings, etc.

That 2.7 engine is notorious for failure because of sludge build-up. Some say it is a defective engine. Chrysler was never a company that liked to issue recalls.

Joe

Ok Ed, Here is the skinny on the 2.7. When they installed it into the vehicle, they wanted the catalytic converters to go to work as soon as possible to pass emissions. If you raise the car on a lift the first thing you will notice is the converters are immediately after the manifolds and are almost against the block. The design of the car didn't leave much room for the converters. This design allows the converters to heat the block to a higher temp. And guess what? The 2.7 block is aluminum! The oil inside is at a constant higher than normal temperature. That means it will 'cook' the oil faster than most other engines. The oil needs to be changed more often than usual. 3,000 miles in this case is recommended. Oil raised to too higher temp will break down quicker then at a lower temp. You need to see if the engine is clean and clear of any sludge to make sure the owner has diligently changed it. The 2.7 has gotten a bad rap, not because of the engine, but because of the exhaust design. Synthetic oil is fine. But it too has to be changed on a regular bases.

Jackolantern

The problem with the earlier 2.7s (in La-men's terms) is the tube with the screen on it that sucks up the oil and sends it throughout the engine is too close to the bottom of the oil pan and if the oil is not changed very frequently (3,000 miles) without ever missing a oil change or even being late the screen starts to suck up the sludge on the very bottom of the oil pan which is where everything including dirt and metal dust which is normal accumulates. The screen is so fine and soon gets clogged and is unable to send the oil to the moving parts of the engine causing it to self destruct. I personally would never own a 2.7 but since you already have it the best piece of advice I could give you is to change, change, change the oil. I also agree with the 3,000 miles. Maybe even sooner if you live on a farm or somewhere where the dust is very heavy or you do a lot of short trips ( starting, short trip, starting, then returning home). The oil doesn't matter as long as you keep it changed. I would think about changing it at 2,500 miles, that way by the time you actually get it in for service there will hopefully be 3,00o miles or less on the car.

Allan C

should i buy a chrysler 300c srt8?

" " or is there sumthing better??i want a car exactly like this but with better fuel economy(doesnt matter if its a v6)...i like the looks, luxury, performance and rims on this whip....shuld i get it or is there sumthing even better?? cheaper??(preferably cheaper)...i just dont think 13-19 mpg is worth $50k lmao

Asked by: Brandon @ 2009-06-18 20:44:55

Answers ::
I have a 300C srt8
For the money it is the badest car on the block.
It eats BMW 5-series for breakfast and with a tune of the engine it eats mustangs, camero's. Etc.
Live a little
Forget about the gas mileage.

sirharley91

NOOOOOOOO

Money M

dude get a Hyundai Genesis coupe, its 300HP, much more fuel efficient and MUCH cheaper. Also checkout Sonata V6, Acura TL, Bmw 5series.

Don't buy any Chrysler (Dodge, jeep) products, i have had very bad experience with 2 vehicles already..

SE-R

yes. this is a awesome car. my friend has one and loves it

laura o

yea i think its not worth that much neither but its a good car but takes allot of gas you should get the BMW 7-Series it look stylish the inside its like riding in a limo for more information take a look at a web site i have found on the model.

Mike

I have a number of questions about muscle cars?

I am 15 and still learning about cars. I will be ready to buy an A body (most likely a duster or dart 70-74) Mopar in about a year probably with a 318 that I want to make a respectable small block out of with bigger heads, a mild cam, and probably a 650 edelbrock carb etc. There are a number of things that are confusing me. Please answer as many of these questions as you can.

1. With a 727 Automatic can you use the manual first gear for acceleration? Ive heard it is only for engine braking and it is bad for the bands to use it for acceleration.

2. How does the tachometer work?

3. How does the fuel gauge work?

4. What are vaccum secondaries? I hear the term in almost every article I read but still have no idea what they are or what they do.

5. How does the power steering work in an a body duster or dart work?

Asked by: ............... @ 2009-06-18 12:38:53

[Best Answer].............. Dude you are on the road to a nice little hot rod, I built a 72 duster and sold it. My daughter was 3 when I sold it and about sh--t a brick and at 12 she still has the original pink and she found the car in a couple of towns over and wants me to buy it back.

In answer to your question
1) who ever told you this is a idiot. The 727 is a good HD trans and no first is not for what you are talking about. Its just first gear like any automatic transmission that has a first. In the hot rod world people are going for a built baby 904. Lighter and just as tough, for less and a good light weight trans. with the right mods

2) The tack reads the RPM's of your engine ( rotation per minute ) great for keeping tabs on your idle, stall, and any kind of over reving

3) Fuel gauge just like any other how much fuel is left in your tank
now if you are talking about a pressure guage, then is helps you again keep tabs on the pressure. so it shows you that it is staying steady enough to keep the right pressure at your carb so you dont lean out the car or loose pressure so that you car straves for fuel on a hard pull on the engine ( drag racing)

4 vacuum secondaires, Is for 4 barrel carbs that opens the secondaries to allow more fuel in your engine when it needs it by vacuum pressure drop. Then you have double pumpers the shove extra fuel in the engine depending on where the throttle is and because your cam has so much lope to it there is a very low vacuum signal.

5 Again power steering is like any car your friends, dad or mom have driven it just makes it easier to steer. Some people want a manual steering system with a close ratio gear box so they can steer with a little easier effort (but not as easy as power steering assist) but will provide more HP when yoou need to split hairs (power steering causes a power lose in the engine do to drag, and can make you loose a tenth of a second in a drag race)

I suggest you buy 2 books, one "how to hot rod a mopar LA or 318 small block" you want the book that talks about the LA engine not the magnum, unless you got a lot of money and a mechanical experience of 10 years, at least ( which you do not ) And the factory "Mopar Performence" book that should still be sold by your Local Chrysler Dealer if it is still being published. I think 5th to 7th edition. I have the 9th and it only touches on the LA and is for manliy magnum engines

By : rick b @ 1245396400

Answers ::
Those cars are not muscle cars and a 318 is certainly not a muscle engine.

auggiehoo

Do something different! Find you a nice rolling chassis, and build it with a fuel injected 318 out of a full size van. Use a newer transmission with overdrive - most newer models came with overdrive. That is much better idea then fuck'n around with all that shit your talking about. I would also redone the steering and braking. Most folks doing this kinda stuff, use like 80's Diplomas or something on that level.

Your 15, put in some wrech time and have something nice.

Paul H

These questions are best answered by buying the car and taking it apart The older cars are much easier to work on and are basic operation. Get the Dart and if you can not find a 318 in those cars look for the inline 6 a very strong engine not a v8 but it does haul ass in the dart The duster is a little heaver then the dart Both great cars to work on and find parts at the junk yards

Ed

.............. Dude you are on the road to a nice little hot rod, I built a 72 duster and sold it. My daughter was 3 when I sold it and about sh--t a brick and at 12 she still has the original pink and she found the car in a couple of towns over and wants me to buy it back.

In answer to your question
1) who ever told you this is a idiot. The 727 is a good HD trans and no first is not for what you are talking about. Its just first gear like any automatic transmission that has a first. In the hot rod world people are going for a built baby 904. Lighter and just as tough, for less and a good light weight trans. with the right mods

2) The tack reads the RPM's of your engine ( rotation per minute ) great for keeping tabs on your idle, stall, and any kind of over reving

3) Fuel gauge just like any other how much fuel is left in your tank
now if you are talking about a pressure guage, then is helps you again keep tabs on the pressure. so it shows you that it is staying steady enough to keep the right pressure at your carb so you dont lean out the car or loose pressure so that you car straves for fuel on a hard pull on the engine ( drag racing)

4 vacuum secondaires, Is for 4 barrel carbs that opens the secondaries to allow more fuel in your engine when it needs it by vacuum pressure drop. Then you have double pumpers the shove extra fuel in the engine depending on where the throttle is and because your cam has so much lope to it there is a very low vacuum signal.

5 Again power steering is like any car your friends, dad or mom have driven it just makes it easier to steer. Some people want a manual steering system with a close ratio gear box so they can steer with a little easier effort (but not as easy as power steering assist) but will provide more HP when yoou need to split hairs (power steering causes a power lose in the engine do to drag, and can make you loose a tenth of a second in a drag race)

I suggest you buy 2 books, one "how to hot rod a mopar LA or 318 small block" you want the book that talks about the LA engine not the magnum, unless you got a lot of money and a mechanical experience of 10 years, at least ( which you do not ) And the factory "Mopar Performence" book that should still be sold by your Local Chrysler Dealer if it is still being published. I think 5th to 7th edition. I have the 9th and it only touches on the LA and is for manliy magnum engines

rick b

I just replaced the inlet and outlet o2 sensors on a 2004 pt cruiser and the check engine light still stays on?

When I personally changed the o2 sensors, I still get the same error code that the o2 sensors are bad, but they are brand new and the check engine light stays on. I even tried to remove the battery terminals and then put them back on to reset and still nothing. What do I do?

Asked by: hvacrjohn @ 2009-06-17 20:11:26

Answers ::
Go to Autozone and borrow their code reader and clear the code.

Also can look up the reset procedure for your car on the internet...usually a set series on turning the ignition and stepping on the gas pedal.

cowboysfan19721972

you have to go to the dealer and get them to clear the code from the computer.

Shaun H

OBDII computer systems require the use of a scan tool to clear failure codes. Disconnecting the battery will not clear failure codes, pumping the gas pedal will not clear the failure codes. Only a scanner can do it.
Note if the problem has not been fixed the codes will reset .

FleetTech

What is the code? It might not be the O2 Sensors. There is no dtc that says "O2 sensor bad, replace it" You could have a wiring issue or even a PCM issue. There are many things that set off O2 Sensor DTCs. Send me the D