Wednesday, June 30, 2010

replaced distributor TWICE & still not starting?

Question 1
replaced distributor TWICE & still not starting?...  So one day my car just wouldn't start. It will turn over but it wont catch. So my uncle (who is a mechanic) brought over the scanner computer thingy to check the codes and the only code coming up is for the AC the cam and crank is good but he said for some reason the distributor is not getting enough spark to get the car running. Hes VERY upset he said this is the first car he cant figure out! && its frustrating for me because I have a 7week old and I have drs appts to get him to and whatnot! ANY ideas would be GREATLY appreciated!!
Oh and its a 1995 Chrysler Cirrus LX
The Beast...did you not see that my uncle IS a REAL mechanic? He tried all that stuff too. Thanks though.
AGAIN my uncle IS a 'real' mechanic he works for Hyundai/Chrysler/Dodge!!

1)   well if the car starts its not your starter.

so next check your battery, then check your spark plugs, then check your alternator.

if all that checks out time to check the fuel system.

if all else fails take it to a real mechanic. - The Beast

2)   The distributor doesn't "get" spark, it distributes spark. Hence the name. If everything is working and you just don't have enough spark, the coil and/or ignition module are at fault. Very common on Chrysler products for the ignition module to fail. You might want to get it towed to a garage and let a real mechanic fix it. - Samboski

3)   get it towed into a dealership. they will get it started for you. - badbill1941

4)   No disrespect to your uncle, but I suggest you to show it to an authorized dealer. No problem occur over night.
For my sack add 10 liters of fuel and try.
If it does or not work please mail me. I feel challenged with the problem. - A U M

5)   coil could not be creating enough juice - chris!


Question 2
2003 Chrysler Sebring 140k miles?...  Is 140k miles on a chrysler sebring bad?

1)   well its defff not good, but if it has had all it its maintenance done on time and what not, then it should last till 200k if your lucky....

answer mine plz;_ylt=AoTGWnc_Kn8WbactRhbrbZ7ty6IX;_ylv=3?qid=20100626154953AARr4T5 - Dude-im-bored

2)   There's no such thing as a Chrysler Sebring with 140k miles on it. - Trace Miller

3)   maintanance is key. Both my dodges have over 150k miles, and run and run and run. - done wrenching

4)   How much are they selling it for?

Why do you ask a question but leave details that can be important out. To best give you a accurate answer its best you tell us as much detail of the car as possible. Like what if they are selling the car for 5,000 or 20,000? You see we can tell you that for the money is a good deal or bad. Also was it ever a rental and other details. Why don't you post your questions correctly? - kdbg69

5)   Don't walk, RUN from that car! Sebrings start dying at 100K (if you're lucky!) - Jill D.


Question 3
My g/f wana buy Chrysler PT ..anyone know anything about this car,,? thanks?...  hello everyone,,my g/f wana buy Chrysler PT and we both dont know anything about this car,,plzz some help if anyone know anything about this car,,thanks alot..

1)   dont get it i had one and the transmission went out and they wanted $5,000 for it and the car wasnt even worth $2,000 so it didnt hold its value and it was junk - josh

2)   they fall apart, i know that and look bad doing it. - Patrick

3)   They are basically neons just slightly larger and neons arent a reliable car at all. Mine had the head gasket blow every 40,000 miles at 80,000 enough was too much and sold it for parts - howie

4)   It's a pretty good car, very few problems out of them when taken care of, meaning the maintenance is done at proper intervals, and it isn't driven like a race car.

Contrary to popular rumors, there's very few problems with Chrysler transmissions that require a replacement or rebuild. The reason this myth keeps on going is from transmission shops who are either incompetent on Chrysler transmissions, or dishonest and willing to do anything to get a bigger sale. Most Chrysler trans problems can be fixed without rebuilding or replacing the trans.

Sure, there's one goes out every once in a while, but that's with every manufacturer, not just Chrysler. It also has some to do with how a vehicle is driven and taken care of as to how long a transmission will last. A vehicle driven normal and fluid changed regularly (about every 40k-50k miles or so) will be more likely to last a good long while -- a vehicle driven like it's a race car and never had the fluid changed will likely not last nearly as long. (Chrysler's maintenance schedule says trans fluid change isn't necessary, but I prefer to keep mine changed regularly).

The looks are a matter of opinion, and who cares what anyone else thinks if you like the way it looks. They aren't buying, driving, or paying for it, you are.

As far as being the same as a Neon, they were loosely based on the Neon platform, but are not the exact same, and it isn't just a larger Neon. Neons were very well-built vehicles, however, the first few years they were available they did have some head gasket problems. This problem with the gaskets was taken care of by 1997, long before the PT was available, not to mention it was a smaller engine (2.0 instead of the 2.4 the PT's have).

Everyone I know who has owned either a PT or a Neon has loved their car and gotten a lot of use out of it. - Mark B


Question 4
I have a 98 Chrysler Sebring jxi. I buy regular gas but I know midgrade burns slower. Would it b safe 2 swtch?...  Is there only ONE type of gas meant for this car?
I have a 6 cylinder I believe

1)   midgrade burns slower? who told you that?

regular gas is fine for that car, midgrade will only waste money - Dave87gn

2)   The higher grade means higher octane rating which means that it will resist pre detonation
or "ping". It is the same gas and additives otherwise. Generally the higher octane is used with engines with higher compression ratios ( more stroke less chamber area). Look in your owners manual and use the gas with the correct octane. If it says 87 octane you are simply wasting money by using a higher grade. - peedeesuave

3)   Check your owners manual , you can probably use regular 87 octane fuel ,HOWEVER the higher grades of fuel have more than just higher octane , they also have other additives in them that may be beneficial to your car/situation.If you switch to a higher grade of fuel and do not notice any improvements , you can always switch back. - Kevi

4)   midgrade is made for engines with a little bit higher compression to resist pre-det. running regular 87 in your car will do it no harm it is actually recommended. so dont waste your money or time - chris!


Question 5
Chrysler Engine running rough after rebuild; what could be the problem?...  I just completed the rebuilld of a Chrysler 2.7L engine in a 2001 Concorde. Upon startup the engine ran rough and I received error codes indicating bad coils (the Error codes were P00351, P00352, and P00356. I have done the following:
- traced out all wiring and vacuum lines and all are connected correctly;
- replaced spark plugs and coils;
- switch out the ignition capacitors with another car to verify they were not causing the problem;
- switch the ASD relay with another relay; this had no effect so I switched the relays back;
After doing all this the engine was running more smoothly and is completely smooth by 1000 rpm. However, the engine still idles rough and will jump between 600 and 800 rpm when idling. Note that I even though it is idling rough I am free of error codes from the car's computer.
I am open to suggestions as to what the problem may be and any good input would be appreciated.
Very unlikely it is improper head torque. When I tore the engine down and inspected it I discovered it had a marginal crankshaft when it came to tolerances. I decided to go back together with the marginal crankshaft and the car could not hold oil pressure. So I had to pull the engine a second time and replace the crankshaft. When I pulled the engine the second time I did not remove the cylinder heads and the first time I assembled it the car ran smooth. So it is very unlikely that it is improper torque on the cylinder heads since it ran smooth on the first assembly rebuild.

1)   improper head torque? - chris!

2)   Check for an intake leak. - C-Tech

3)   Sounds like a timing issue. Most likely a crank reluctor but could be a camshaft out of phase. - Samboski

4)   Cant tell you for sure but I did have one that the crank and cam sensors were out of sync, start the car and disconnect the cam sensor and see if smooths out, if it does it could be a cam or crank sensor but more than anything its one tooth of on timing. - john


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