plymouth voyager shimmy / shake?

Question 1
plymouth voyager shimmy / shake?...  i have a plymouth voyager 1997 has a shimmy in front end only when accelerating ive replaced cvc joins & tierods any ideas ?

Answers
1)   tires struts - wimpy

2)   My best suggestion is find a reliable shop that offers free estimates and have them show you and explain exactly what is faulty.One thing you can do is move the steering wheel slowly left and then right see if you can feel something in the steering wheel or hear noises bec that could be a strut problem.Check the tires over closely be sure that their the proper tire pressures, also that the tires arent wearing funny or worn bec that too can cause that problem , plus tires that aren't balanced properly or a front end that isn't aligned properly or is loose can cause that too.Put the vehicles emg brake on , jack up the front end, use stands and then try holding the front left wheel at 3 and 9 oclock with your hands then try moving the wheel with each hand see if any play exists, check the front end parts when doing this to spot the problem.Do the same at 6 and 12 oclock and then spin the wheel listen to it and watch how freely it moves etc.



Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way many different things can cause that problem and if you see any flat or dried out or damaged rubber boots on a ball joint etc that can tell you there could be a problem with that part.Just be sure to check the tires fully and that the wheels are balanced, plus ask about the rims be sure their not warped etc.I'd also check the engine mounts, check the brakes over closely especially on the front end, plus check the rack and pinion and be sure that it's mounted solidly. - helpful bob

3)   You will need to get under your van again to check the inner cv joint to see if it is loose(worn). If you replaced them with rebuilt joints did you check the replacements to make sure they were the same length. A problem with rebuilt joints.
Another thing to look for would be a warped rotor and a seizing calliper. This issue is most notable when accelerating when merging with traffic from a highway ramp. - clowdy4

4)   Did you replace the entire shaft and joints on both sides. CV joints are the number 1 cause of shimmying on acceleration. If the CV joints are good, then you have a tire with a slipped belt. Also if you have bad motor mounts, it will cause this condition. All motor mounts (there are three)should be replaced at 100,000 miles to keep the drive line in line with the axles front wheels. - Jackolantern


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Question 2
Should I buy a Plymouth Duster?...  I've been wanting to buy a classic car for years now, and I was thinking about buying an old duster like the 73 my Dad had when I was a kid. Buy I don't know alot about older cars, and needed some pointers.
Are there specific things to look for when buying a classic car, or a Duste specifically? Are there any common problems with dusters? What would be a good price to pay for one? (restored and not) And while I've never done it, would it be worth it to buy and restore one myself?
Or maybe for some reason you'd recommend me to look into other car choices.

Hope to get answers soon.

Answers
1)   I am not really an expert on the duster, but i do own some classic muscle. A big thing to look at when buying older cars is rust. Rust around the fenders and in the Engine compartment can really kill the resale value of the car, and damaged body panels on older cars can really be a pain to replace if your attempting to restore with original parts. like i said, my experience with a Dusters and Plymouths in general is limited, i'm more knowledgeable fords, and i'm just kinda speaking generally here. - Ryan Against

2)   ask your dad - Camaro Hopper

3)   I would think rust would be the main issue. Don't buy anything newer than a '73. Unless you want a hot rod, look for the slant 6, great engine. I had a '70 Valiant, similar to the Dart, but the Duster was a very similar car. The car was basic and bullet proof and quite fast for a 6 cylinder. - doane_nut

4)   the biggest problem is, as others have indicated, is rust.

If you new to the car hobby, be aware restorations are, as a general rule expensive, and you are generally better off (from a $ perspective) buying a restored car than restore one yourself.

I agree with one of the other writers that if you are purchasing a Duster, a 73 should be the newest you should look at (a 70 or 71 would be a bit better)

It is a great time to buy with the economy down - you should be able to find a top notch car for around $10k. Make sure you have it looked at carefully by experts before you buy and don't buy the first one you see. Look around.

You may want to also look at the 67-69 Barracuda. - roadrunner426440


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Question 3
How many spark plugs does a 2008 Chrysler 2.7 L 300 have?...  

Answers
1)   Their a 6 cylinder engine and have 6 spark-plugs. - helpful bob

2)   6. Three are hidden under the intake. - C-Tech

3)   6 one for each cylinder - Patrick


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Question 4
should i get a fixie or beach cruiser?...  i need a bike to get around the city and go to school with so which would be more convenient for me im 15 and live in LA :)

Answers
1)   Get the Cruiser with 5 or 6 gears.. the fixie only has one gear and some have no brakes...very dangerous to a new rider.. - MUSTANG_MAN

2)   I would recommend the fixie. They are much more fun to ride and they can be used for all sorts of different things. - A C

3)   Crazy that I find myself using electric bike scooters for cheap transportation but it is the best move I have ever made. Not sure if it will for you. - Leilani Briggs


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Question 5
Ok my 1989 Plymouth voyager is having problems when i press the gas.?...  Ok my 1989 Plymouth voyager is having problems when i press the gas..i have changed my fuel filter recentlly and just changed spark plugs and TPS..it still stalls if I press gas down to hard..i have to slowly press it to move steady..any ideas???.

Answers
1)   Sounds like a fuel related problem.You may want to get professional help. - badbill1941

2)   Have a full diagnostic test scan performed by a mechanic or get a free scan done at a parts store etc.I'd want to test the fuel pressure, perform a compression test, check the vac hoses, vac lines, rotar,coil,cap,air filter, clean the throttle body/treat the fuel system,check the egr valve and any devices connected up to it, go over any and all wiring harness's especially the harness's that are located where their subject extreme heat bec a wire could be melted or damaged or corroded internally.

That vehicle may have problems with it's starter/charging wiring and connections from the battery,starter,alternator, engine block ground and any chassis or frame grounds.I'd highly suspect that unless someone has fully over hauled and replaced the main charging/starting system wiring that your vehicle is in need of it.You can go over all the connections, wire o-ring connectors, all the ground surfaces with a wire brush , sandpaper etc and either clean the mounting screws/bolts/nuts extremely well or replace them.Note sometimes it's just best to create or make brand new grounds using new wiring, o-ring connectors etc instead of trying to get the really rusty/corroded screws etc out.

That has a comp system and again the harness, wiring , grounds going to the main comp etc could be weak or faulty.Plus the comp uses certain grounds to feed ground signals to different sensors/comps etc so the comp's grounds is very vital and so are the positive 12 volt feeds from fuses , fuse box ,ignition, relays, etc.In fact if the vehicle was mine and I planned on driving it awhile I'd be getting a ground chart location diagram that will tell you where all the in vehicle, under the hood, dash area, trunk etc grounds are.I'd replace them especially the ones on the chassis,frame etc that are subject to extreme temperatures and moister etc.You could patch new grounds to the old ones if their cleaned/prepared and soldered then sealed.

The sensors plug in connectors may have rust or corrosion , again check/clean all the wiring and connections fully, watch for any wires that might have been fixed/spliced in the past.Also note that plugs or connectors can become loose or faulty due to vibrations, moister etc.


Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way when you installed the store bought spark-plugs were they factory recommended pre-spark gapped plugs , they probably were and it's not uncommon to find the new plugs aren't pre-gapped properly that's one reason why the spark gaps should be always checked as well as the whole new spark-plug before installing them.
A full diagnostic test should dectect the problem or at least help to narrow down the problem but really the main comp=PCM should of picked up or detected some kind of problem within the different devices and circuits but sometimes faulty grounds, wiring or comps can cause the system not to detect the fault or faults.Especially on those old models the comp systems arent very update to date or designed well enough to be able to detect some faults or error codes. - helpful bob

3)   Sounds like a misfire.

You say you recently changed the plugs, did this start after you changed the plugs, or did you change the plugs due to this problem?

If this started after you changed the plugs, check the wires to be sure they're all on good and tight (check both ends), good idea to also check the plugs themselves to make sure they're all tight.

If the plugs and wires are all on tight, then check the wires themselves to make sure they're good. If the wires are old and/or cracked, replace them.

Remove the distributor cap and check the cap and rotor. If there's a lot of carbon build-up, the metal tabs inside are worn down, or if it has cracks in it, then replace the cap and rotor.

If all of that checks out good, then it's probably time to take it in and have it checked by your trusted mechanic. - Mark B


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