Does anyone know the transmission warranty on the 2008 Chrysler 300 LX V-6 2.7 engine?

Question 1
Does anyone know the transmission warranty on the 2008 Chrysler 300 LX V-6 2.7 engine?...  I heard there is a 83 yr. Warranty on this vehicle transmission. That's wright 83 yrs. The Internet does not give me serial numbers, or whom to contact being its an earlier model. One warranty says just 300 with no model name.

Answers
1)   nope. your owners manual will tell you you either have a 3/36 or a 5/100 there's no way chrysler would basically sell a car and give you or anyone else a free transmission or engine for that long they would of been out of business long ago - bo

2)   To be sure, contact your local dealer and give them your vehicle I.D. number they can look up your warranty information (if any) in minutes. - C-Tech

3)   http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/2008-chrysler-300-14.htm
unlimited miles/years, which is a good thing since Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge products go through Transmissions fast and often. Just yesterday Chrysler had the honor of finishing dead last in Consumer Reports reliability survey, they just barely beat our the crappy German trio of Mercedes/Audi/BMW. - aj20031018

4)   Didn't Chrysler have that lifetime powertrain warranty around that time? If they did the warranty lasts as long as the car does. - The Great Brandini

5)   Chrysler had/has a Limited Lifetime Powertrain Warranty. With the limited part meaning that you kept up on all powertrain maintenance. Any chrysler dealership should have the pamphlet that explains the complete warranty. Or least I know when I bought my 2008 Caliber they gave me a pamphlet that explained the warranty and what upkeep I needed to not void it. - Crys


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Question 2
What is the name of this belt on my Chrysler 300m ...pix?...  I'm trying to find out the name of this belt.
Here is the picture it is the(inner) belt on the right diagram. The belt circling the 1's on the left of the diagram.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55246392@N07/5125539613/

Answers
1)   cant see any picture but the only belt there is is the serpentine belt - pedro7of9

2)   1.timing b elt 2.serpentine belt - PEDGE

3)   There are 2 serpentine type drive belts, the narrow one is for power steering and alternator. the wider belt is for a/c compressor, and that one is on passenger side of engine. - done wrenching

4)   After looking at some pics of the 3.5 engine on "allpar.com" I'm going to guess and this is a guess using the pictures as reference, the belt drives the AC compressor. The "center" pulley appears to be the crankshaft pulley the smaller one to the left appears to be the idler, perhaps a tension idler, and the upper left would be the AC compressor. The photos I looked at on "allpar.com" were not clear but I could see the alternator was located on the left side of the engine, the right side as we look at the picture.

Using this info, I would call it the "air conditioner compressor drive belt". If there are hoses leading from this component to the firewall that would make it even more likely to be the AC compressor. - Don't know everything !


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Question 3
Known problems with Chrysler Cordobas?...  I'm looking into buying a 1977 chrysler cordoba with 118 000 km's on it.. are there any known problems I should be aware of about this particular car?

Answers
1)   It's an old American car. Like any other, it leaks oil, sucks gas, paint fades, drives like a boat, stops like a drunken bull.

Comfortable Corinthian leather tho. - Kenny

2)   It's getting old. Do not pay alot for it. - done wrenching

3)   Problem of tampered speedo. - Minister_of_Truth_mt

4)   The biggest problem I remember was with the "lock up" torque converter (shifting into lock mode was very harsh).

Beyond that pretty typical for late 70's US cars - roadrunner426440


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Question 4
1965 383 Plymouth backfiring..any help?...  My 65 Sport Fury still has the original 383 Comando V8 factory 2 bbl motor in it. It spun a rod bearing in 1973 and I still have the 1973 Arizona license plates that came on it. I rebuilt the engine. That was the easy part. The hard part is finding the backfiring problem. As you accelerate about halfway or better to the max rpm, is when it starts to backfire. The first thing I think I should do is to measure the slack in the timing chain. Any other idieas? I rebuilt the engine in 1995 and now can't remember if I put new timing chain and gears in it. I am sure I would not skimp on such an important item. I think I had my father looking over my shoulder back then and he talked me out of spending money on chain and gears. I have done the research for troubleshooting the timing chain wear. The slack in the chain is not suppose to be any more than 11/64 of an inch of play. I can't beleive that I would not put on a new set of chain and gears. Could it be the valve springs? The valve springs and valve guide seals were new when I put in the new camshaft. I put in a slightly higher performance camshaft then what is stock. With that camshaft kit came new hydraulic lifters and the new valve springs. I assume the valve springs would be a stiffer spring than stock. The point gap is set right at 18 with a new set of points. It can be anywhere between 14-19. The timing is right a 10 degrees BTC. That is what my 65 Plymouth service manual said to set the points and the timing at. I called the place where I got my camshaft and asked them if the factory timing can still be used with the camshaft they sold me. They said "yes". I no longer wanted to use the high rise aluminum intake and 4 bbl set up so I installed a new valley pan intake gasket and put the original factory cast iron intake back on it. I put on a rebuilt Bendix/Stromberg WW3 2 bbl carb. That is the factory correct carb for my car when it was new. I still have the original but this one was already rebuilt and ready to go. I am getting very good spark from the wires at the distributor cap. The spark snaps and jumps very strong when I take them off one by one at the cap. When I do that I don't really hear any difference in the engine. It isn't obvious that a wire has been taken off if you just listen to it run. It basically makes no change. That's the way it seems anyway. I guess I need to do the same thing at the spark plug end of the wires to see if I am getting the same good spark. Maybe I should check the plug wires to see if I have two of them switched around by accident? I wonder if my distributor drive gear might be off by one tooth? The distributor itself can only fit into the slot at the top of that drive gear one way. It is either dead on or gonna be 180 degrees off. It could be that I am off by one tooth of where that drive gear is supposed to be, in its relationship with the camshaft. That could put the distibutor off just enough to be a problem. Does that sound possible? Maybe the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft gears are just off a tooth. What do you guys think? Please help.
I bought the car in 1987 and finally rebuilt the engine in 1994 and then drove it for a year and then parked it in my garage in 1995. I looked at all my receipts and I put in a rebuilt distributor at the time I put in a new camshaft. The engine has a total of 3200 miles on it. Can't imagine the distributor and/or a cam lobe going bad in that short amount of time. Glad you guys are willing to help. It is blowing a little black smoke out the exhaust as if it had a manual choke that was pulled out too far and forgot to push it back in after warm up. It has a well type, thermocoil choke spring set up sunk down into the intake manifold. It is supposed to be set at 1 notch rich. I'll check that to see if it needs adjusting. Any other tips? You guys are good to help a person out.

Answers
1)   I remember there is a question similar to your question asked by someone few days ago. Someone has answered it very well, and the answer has been chosen as the best answer. You can try to search it in search function above, hope you luck - Trinity Campbell

2)   Sounds like you may have a rounded cam lobe, especially if the popping is very repetative when you stand on it. - done wrenching

3)   The problem may actually be in your distributor, too much advance or too little due to a worn out component. Give serious consideration to an electronic distributor from Chrysler, looks very much like what you have and more reliable.

You mentioned a lot of other possibilities as well and it might be worth the time to pull the engine down and check what you have questioned, timing chain and gears, distributor drive, etc. - Don't know everything !

4)   first thing is to check timing before tearing down. late timing will cause backfire. when your car manual was printed we had differant grade of fuel You cannot go by the original timing with some of the bad fuels we get today. you don't have to smog so you can advance. When they smog older cars they retard the timing until they hardly run to meet state specs. - Bob S


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Question 5
I have a 2003 pt ccruiser. My dealer tells me I have to replace the radiator because it is leaking at the top.?...  no leaks on my driveway, no change in temp gauge. do i need to replace?

Answers
1)   get a second opinion. - Hoppelemine

2)   Have him pressure test it, and show you. - badbill1941

3)   It could very well be leaking. That, and most all radiators today, are aluminum with composite tanks on each end with silicon seals between the tanks and main aluminum parts. What I would suggest is get a bottle of Bars Leak and add to the coolant. This stuff is great at stopping leaks and has an additive to keep down rust. It is recommended for cooling systems that don't even have leaks! - Jackolantern


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