Researching for my 1st car looking at GM or Chrysler?

Researching for my 1st car looking at GM or Chrysler?

I'm a 1st time car buyer do you think with their finacial situation a could get a better deal puchasing new from either one or buy a used car instead?
Thanks for all the feedback I'm still in the research stage and not sure how much I want to spend. since this will be my 1st car probably no more than 20k give or take.

Asked by: BXCALI @ 2009-05-23 00:42:13

Answers ::
well it all depends on the money u got and what type of vehicle you want

t/arunner

i think GM is offering 0% APR for 60 months. but if you'll ask me, i prefer to keep my old 00 impala. i have fixed myself so many times that i already know it, so i don't worry when it breaks down. that is one disadvantage about new cars. they are more complicated now and service them is getting more and more expensive.

martin l

Buy new!!! Right now used cars are at a premium. Shop around at GM dealers. Tell them you want the "GMS"price ( employee price) and show you on the computer what it says. First though, go join a Credit Union make some deposits , 3 wks worth and go in and apply for a loan and get pre approved. Dealers are known to "Jack up" the payments( add $35-$75 to your mo. pymt)

gmgypsy55

Both are junk. Get a toyota,honda or nissan of any kind. Proven to last twice as as long (if not longer) and hold there value more than any other type of cars on the market. For the best deal buy privet party. Car lots most of the time are rip offs and the cars lose tons of value the second you drive it off the lot. If you are looking for a newer car and need a loan look to the banks. Any type of credit union bank is your best bet and if you are young look to your parents for a cosigner to help you out. Hope this helps and good luck with your new car!

Loveabull Bullies

Niether!! Go Ford or any other make. Chrysler went bankrupt and won't honor warranties or recalls on any vechle purchase before reorgansation. G M is heading in the same direction. Ford and other makes have not taken billions of dollors for "bail out" from the goverment.

tiburon

Now is the time to get a great deal on either one. Bankruptcy won't affect the warranty coverage. Spend some time researching. Check out Cartalk.com for very useful links.Also, Edmunds,.com, Cars.com, kbb.com and ConsumerReports are great sources of information. Find out exactly what incentives are being offered, and how much the dealer really is paying for the car before agreeing to a deal so you don't end up feeling ripped-off. Many dealers are just trying to move inventory at any price now, so don't be afraid to negotiate and get the best deal you can.

Win S

Firs t of all you do not want to buy GM unless its chevy. Chevy is on a roll but GM has problem with their cars. my friend has 2 GM cars and they are in for repair almost every month. altho Chrysler is on the fast track because i have 3 Chryslers and they rarely go into the shop for maintenance. besisdes oil changes but whatever. so I'd go with Chrysler new or used dont matter. but if you buy used make sure you get all the information on what it has been taken to the mechanic for repairs.

Jay B

Horsepower? 1973 400 cubic inch V8 Mopar / Plymouth Fury?

What is the horsepower rating of a 1973 chrysler V8 engine... 400 Cubic inches 2 barrel carb.... This is in a 1973 plymouth fury non taxi, non police use vehicle...

Can you direct me to a website with this info?...

I went to allpar but couldn't find the right page for this engine...

Thanks!

Asked by: METROPOLIS1 @ 2009-05-23 00:39:07

[Best Answer]hmm, I was surprised to see a 400, hardly heard of it, then found a reference indicating that it is a bored 383.

http://www.allpar.com/model/fury.html
http://www.allpar.com/history/plymouth/1973.

Finally found a link that says either 400 cid 2 barel carb has 175 hp (california only) or 185 hp (49 state).

By : Texas @ 1243067047

Answers ::
For collector car info like this, I always go to the VMR Auto Guides site. In 1973, the 400 2-barrel was rated at 185 NET horsepower. Realistically, it probably makes more like 220-230 at the crank.

http://www.collectorcarmarket.com/menus/ccmprcs/73plfury.htm

Jefferson

hmm, I was surprised to see a 400, hardly heard of it, then found a reference indicating that it is a bored 383.

http://www.allpar.com/model/fury.html
http://www.allpar.com/history/plymouth/1973.

Finally found a link that says either 400 cid 2 barel carb has 175 hp (california only) or 185 hp (49 state).

Texas

There always have been different HP ratings on the 400 and how it was built. It defiantly a "B" engine, yes the 400 had a bigger bore than the 383 but noting else was interchangeable. Allpar forgets to note this. Basically the reason for the 400 was to provide torque and HP for the bigger cars since the California and Fed emission laws were killing the HP on small block engines. The 400 was kind of a bandade thought to a weight to ratio problem. Now yes the 383 was around but was mainly for NASCAR teams to R&D before all the restriction started kicking in to keep the cars under 200+ MPH Then Chrysler came up with the "RB" engines and brought about tons of torque and HP and made the 400 look like a boat anchor.. The 400 with a 4 bbl carb, correct cam and dump that cast iron intake you can produce about 230 + HP but the parts for that engine is kind of pricey do to lack of demand. Where you would be better off with a 383 or 440
400 2 bbl is around 185 HP but has a good torque range again not as good as a 383 or 440. Plus the 400 was notorious for heating problems if the engine was ran hard. Last try this link form allpar, I know you dug around but maybe you missed this one, allpar is hard to navigate
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/b-engines.html
And yes I know the difference between a B and RB block, I just brought up the 440 because I like it a lot as far as big blocks go and parts price's are good. And I had one in a older ramcharger I had and have two 440 engines in my garage ready for a 72 A-body I want to cram it in

rick b

check out the resolved question on yahoo. Its got the exact answer that your hunting for.

badass

The 400 in these years was a pig. How ever, there is a lot of potential in the block. It is more rigid than the RB big block. Also beleive they had steel , rather than cst cranks. Stroker kits are avaiable to turn them into 451s an 496s. They make torque and dont have to spin too fast, which saves on exotic hi-buck parts, 6000 rpm max. Check 440source.com and musclemotors.com

scotts74birds

They were in many chrysler cars and trucks from 1972 through 1978 and were low compression and not very powerful. But, as mentioned already can be made into a powerful eng. They did all have cast cranks too. I am building one now into a 512 cubic inch, it will have GOBS of torque.

done wrenching

2009 chrysler town & country minivan--please give me your opinion on this one?

We were considering purchasing a Chrysler town & country van but looked at a 2009 model today and saw that the shift was located on the dashboard. I don't think I would like this. If you own one, would you please give your opinion--positive or negative on this feature or any other regarding this minivan.

Asked by: cajun @ 2009-05-22 20:50:39

Answers ::
sucks

Joe

Looks better than a 2009 toyota sienna, but that really isn't saying much.

Monkey

I have owned three Chrysler built minivans, but none with the shift on the dash. But, if you look around, you will find this is becoming fashionable from several manufacturers (the Nissan Murano, as one example). It is a question of ergonomics and accessibility. The pull-towards-you-then-pull-down motion we are all so familiar with is mechanically complex and difficult for many folk (elderly, handicapped, etc.) [As an interesting historical side note, the shifter in the 1967-72 Honda 600 also protruded from the dash, and that car had a manual!]

You should ask yourself WHY you don't like this before making it a deal breaker. Would you walk away from push buttons, or voice command, or a shift selector on the floor?

It is definitely unfamiliar, but I suggest that you may be more satisfied if you ignored this particular feature and focused on other attributes of the vehicle. Try all competing models and compare whatever is most important to you (comfort, room, sound system, styling, acceleration, handling, quietness, warranty, whatever). Make your selection on those things that are most important to you.

You can easily get used to a non conventional shift selector. Getting used to poor passenger accommodations or inadequate acceleration is quite a bit more difficult.

BTW, Mercedes influenced this feature before selling Chrysler to Cerberus, as the van was developed before Daimler walked away from Chrysler. In-the-dash gear selectors are common in Europe, and Mercedes is selling Chrysler sourced minivans with Mercedes badges on them in Europe.

zealot144

My dad owns the 09 Town and Country and he loves it, he has no problems with it, runs great and very reliable. not a bad price either. make sure to get it with the HID headlights. but to my dad who only buys chrysler cars he says it was the best car he could ever buy.

Jay B

strange at first but you get use to it.

Steve

i need people who have chrysler seabrings to tell me if you have problems with it alot..?

i want the 2007-2008 convertable model...but everyone is tellling me its like a tin can and not to get it..PEOPLE WHO HAVE ONE, HOW ARE THEY??...MINE WOULD BE NEW USED..

Asked by: serendipity5135 @ 2009-05-23 12:05:21

Answers ::
clear all doubts visit this website http://automobilesltd.blogspot.com

asgdf

Sebrings were/are a piece of junk. Even fresh off of the assembly line.
It seems that they were put together using left-over parts from other Chrysler autos. I wouldn't have one.

DER ALTE FIRZ

The older Sebring convertibles were well built and trouble free. My wife has a 97 and after 147,000 hard miles the only things we have replaced other than filters and other tune up parts, were wheel bearings, and tie rod ends. With the new engine and hard drop top they are as good if not better than the older ones.

Don't over look reports on the Dodge Avenger they are built on the same platform and have the same running gear as the Sebring.

superbee

Well, consider this, a tin can is very durable and solid, the items inside stay good and safe until it's opened. Also, tin cans are considered to be the best method of storing food, so it's the best at doing what it does.

Seriously, though, they're good cars and they get pretty good reviews for the 2007 and 2008 models from both actual owners and the professional reviews.

Mark B

help changing my oil on my chrysler 300?

i am changing the oil on my 2005 chrysler 300c hemi.I am wondering where i am supposed to jack it up from under neath?i dont want to break anything.Please help!!

Asked by: dkizl @ 2009-05-23 18:18:30

Answers ::
you shouldn't be under the car with just jacks. your owners manual says where and how to position the jacks.

hello

pinch welds always work theyre on the outer edge. use jack stands

Cuwee

I would get some jack stands or bricks.

Find flat street & feel or look under your car, you will feel or see the metal frame of the car (not the body or shell you will tear your frame up!) The frame is the sturdy structure of your car!

Place jack under thickest part of the frame in all 4 corners in front of the wheel and lift

Then place jack stand under frame next to jack!

Let the jack down slowly onto the jack stands make sure jack stand is sturdy before laying under car!
(You don't want the car to fall down on you) kick stand with your foot to check sturdiness

DANJA

You might be lucky see when you lay down in front of it if you can see or feel the oil pan bolt bec many times I just slide a oil drain pan under the front end and then slide myself up under the bumper and use a wrench or socket and take the pan bolts right out.Then once it's drained wipe off the drain pan bolt and reinstall it , then slide the pan under by the oil filter use a oil filter wrench and remove the filter, then rub some oil along the new filters gasket and then align it up and you should be able to turn it very freely on if lined up right.Be sure the filter is clean before trying to do the final tightening and it's best to double check it later for leaks etc once the oil is added and engine has run some.


Hope that helps if you do jack it up be sure you follow the owners manual and jack both side and use stands, plus I'd have emg brake on and block the rear wheels.Believe me the stands are well worth investments and so is a service manual too , plus a proper shop oil pan that has a place for the oil filter to sit.

When you add the oil add a good 3 litres then wait a bit then slightly turn the key allow the engine to just move a bit forcing the oil into the new oil filter , then wait a few mins and add more oil.Always wait when adding oil and if you've a hot engine and you check oil levels remember a hot engine has oil sitting up inside it and will show a 1/8 or 1/4 of a litre low on the deep stick and try not to ever add cold oils to a hot engine or cold water to a hot rad etc.

helpful bob