What would probably the top speed a of a 1973 Plymouth Duster with a 360 in it?

Question 1
What would probably the top speed a of a 1973 Plymouth Duster with a 360 in it?...  With the same configuration as this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Plymouth-Duster-Pro-Touring-1972-Pro-Touring-Plymouth-Duster-/160439235223?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255aec7297

Answers
1)   Around 120 or so, don't try going that fast, those cars suck and you might die. - Mr. P

2)   there are two top speeds to consider: the top speed, and the top speed at which the thing will stay stuck to the ground - dr schmitty

3)   That car could probably do better than 150 with the right gears, but it would have some stability problems at that speed. - D

4)   It really depends on alot of things...Gearing is the first...If it has like a 2.10 then 150 is possible....411 then 120,125 is were you,ll top out...Then there is the motor...A stock 440 will redline at about 5400 rpms...to be safe...If it,s built up right then you can reach 7200 or 7300 rpms...this is what will make or brake you!!The motor!!!Personally 140 in a duster is scarey...They are light for what they are and the front end tends to wander... - Johnny Rotten

5)   I don't care what you do to a Duster, the front end is gonna lift at right around 115 mph- and you'll be steering it by faith! - charles h

6)   you can get up there a good ways. dusters are very light cars and are even more fun with a bigger motor in it. A duster with a 440 big block would be a awesome car. My friend had a 72 duster i think back when they came out but was a 340. He would race mustangs and corvettes and he thought he would get smoked but could actually win. Back in the day they wouldn't give the true HP or cars to keep insurance cost down. - cainswow


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Question 2
Is it possible to fabricate metal to make a 1970 plymouth cuda from the gound up?...  

Answers
1)   sure, if you have $500,000. - Kenny

2)   Why fabricate when full quarters, front fenders, roofs, hoods, taillight panels, floor pans, trunk pans, door skins, inner wheel wells, radiator cross member and valences (front and rear) are already available. All you need is the front stub, rear frame rails, firewall, doors, various braces, a multitude of miscellaneous metal for reinforcement and a "very heavy jig" to mount it on to align all the panels properly. - Don't know everything !

3)   As the poster said, if you have half-a-'mil lying around! With that said, surely you could, but the NHTSA, EPA, and NTSB might not let you do it- the car would have to meet the MODERN safety standards! - charles h

4)   You sure can - with enough money and materials, anything is possible. For the bargain basement price of around 80K you can go to Mr. Norm's and get yourself a modified Cuda made from the current Challenger platform. They even make a nice convertible for an additional 20K.

That's bargain basement compared to your idea of making one from scratch. - Delamothe

5)   Yes. - C-Tech


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Question 3
is the chrysler 300 a good car?...  hey everyone! my car lease is up and im looking into BUYING a used car!! i was really looking into getting a 300. i can afford probably a 2006 model. theres a lot of them at the car lots for pretty good prices. my question is... is the car a good reliable car? is it good on gas? i want to get the touring model (wanted leather seats) but not sure if i can find one for a good deal so i may just end up with the regular 300. whats the major differences between the regular 300 and touring? thanks in advance for any help

Answers
1)   I would buy from a private seller. More car for the money, way better price. You would not believe the markup dealers have on their cars.

I believe the difference in touring and regular has to do with emblems, cosmetic touches, etc. Be happy with a base 300, since you have no reason to get the pricier hemi edition.

I believe the car got decent reviews and was seen as dependable. There are always bad ones out there. - brad

2)   Yes it is a very good car reviews say that it is a fast fun smooth ride and handles very well. The only downfall is that it is is heavy and goes through brakes and rotors quickly. For safety go to the link below. - Ihelpu

3)   You should also consider that such a car may be expensive to insure. Check your insurance rates before buying one, for example here - carquotes.sinfree.net - William

4)   I have a 2006 Pearlesant White w/ Grey Leather 300 Touring. Never wrecked, 80,000 highway miles. Dealer serviced with records. Well maintained vehicle. One owner. 3.4 V6. Any Serious offer considered, possible owner finance. Call if interested, I can email pics. Car is in Sikeston, Missouri 63801. 573-703-5975 - SEMO

5)   Yes it is a good car. The touring edition has an upgraded interior, aluminun wheels and the 3.5L V6 the base 300 has hubcaps and the smaller 2.7L V6. Shop around, find one under 50,000 miles. For little more money, you can get a certified used car (extended warranty) from a chrysler dealer. - C-Tech


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Question 4
Opinions on late 60's early 70's Mopars?...  So I am a mopar enthusiast and in the past I have worked with family and friends on these vehicles. Now it is time to start on something of my own. I always had a thing for The late 60's and early 70's models. I always wanted the vanishing point Challenger but I also want a charger. Basically I want a few opinions on what year model and what engine I should choose. I will be starting from scratch. I want something that can be easily turned into a beast on the strip but it needs style too. Hopefully something that falls into the category of Charger or Challenger in my time range. Thanks in advance.

Answers
1)   well obviously you know cars from this era are collectible and worth a bunch of money. I'd go for something like a Dodge Dart that won't break the bank so much as a Charger of Challenger would, but still can be made a fast car. - tweek

2)   Options include of course the famous hemi...If you get the hemi then you automatically get the dana 60 rearend and maybe the track -pac...You got be rich to afford that one...Then there,s the 440 six pack...The six pack came out in late 69....Then as far as trannys you have only two choices...727 auto or the a833 4 speed...4 speed cars are worth quite a bit more...Other options besides a/c are r/t version cars with the r/t stripes for chargers...68 seems to be the best for chargers,different back windows and rear taillights they are alot cooler...Remember the movie bullit??Then you get tic toc tachs...This is the clock and tach all in one...Any route you go you cannot go wrong with a classic mopar...Also take a look at the 65 coronets...This was the first car that mopar made into what we now know as funny cars...64 belvederes are cool ones too...I got a 67 plymouth gtx and i love it!!! - Johnny Rotten

3)   You have chosen the two most popular Mopars built during that era and it will cost a lot of bucks to get either one, but they are out there.

As suggested A-bodies (Darts & Dusters) are what to look for at the moment. They are still pretty plentiful, not too expensive and will take any Mopar V-8 ever built, some mods may be required but even they aren't too hard to do.

A good small block (318, 340, or 360) can be built to make enough power to burn the tires off the wheels and the small block weight doesn't kill handling like big blocks without suspension mods.

Whatever your choice, I wish you the best in your Mopar endeavor. - Don't know everything !

4)   73 cuda is a bad mother - nicky c

5)   well if your looking to race, I think your best bet would be either a Plymouth duster or a dodge dart, or dodge demon. The A body's i see allot at drag strips my guess would be because they are very light weight and i have had friends with 340 dusters run multiple times against mustangs and corvettes and he has beat them. I think those i named would be yer best bet and they a pretty common cars to come across. I myself am a big roadrunner fan and trying ot get a roadrunner project going but they are heavy and isn't something i would take to the drag strip and race if i was trying to win comps. But for fun i would and to show up guys who think there 09 mustang is the shit. - cainswow


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Question 5
How much would you pay for a 2005 Chyrsler 300 with 73,000 miles?...  The current sticker price is 12,800. Is that I good price or can I talk the dealship down another 1000.00?

Answers
1)   You can check the retail value of the car at http://www.NADA.com

I don't buy used cars because I believe you could be buying a pile of vehicle problems. - Laredo

2)   73,000 miles..... not much life left for a chrysler. It'll start smoking if it hasn't already and the transmission is about ready to fail. Check out repair frequency on this model car. Run away from this deal as fast as you can. $5000 tops. - Bobo

3)   they need tyo take off at least 3000$ off that... do not buy it! - Passion F

4)   I wouldn't buy a used Chrysler but it's worth between $7,500 and $8,500.

I'd avoid any dealer that's trying to sell vehicles for $3k over the actual value.

they should be asking $9,900 knowing they can come down $1,000 or more and still make money

An occasional problem on this vehicle is failure of the Rack and Pinion Assembly. The cost to repair the Rack and Pinion Assembly ranges from $467.00 to $587.00 for parts and $175.00 to $215.00 for labor depending on the suspension package and if the vehicle has All Wheel Drive (AWD) or not. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.

A common problem on this vehicle with a 2.7 L engine is failure of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve. This can result in higher emissions levels and/or rough idle or engine pinging conditions. The cost to repair the EGR is estimated at $73.35 for parts and $26.00 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax. - Kloosef

5)   "The only thing worse than a new chrysler is a used chrysler"-->my mentor.

Rings true... - Theneelster


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