Chrysler 300 2006 Reasons why my car will not change from Parking to Reverse or Drive ?

Question 1
Chrysler 300 2006 Reasons why my car will not change from Parking to Reverse or Drive ?...  when I turn the engine on and try to change to drive the stick is stuck, any solution ? and of course I press the brake while trying to moving it ?

Help me guy
the car has been parked inclined for 2 years, what can i do about it rocking is not working ?

Answers
1)   It sounds like something broke and doesn't work anymore, you should get it fixed. - Walt Kowalski

2)   The linkage cable - the cable that connects the shifter to the mechanism on the transmission might require tightening. If you go down to select a lower forward gear, see if that works. If it does, then it's the cable. If not, then the mechanism on the transmission itself might need to be realigned so it connects to the appropriate gear. If you park on any inclines, be sure to use the parking brake as it takes stress off the park pawl mechanism inside the transmission. Laymans terms: The pawl is essentially a round toothed gear, and when you select 'park' it places a piece of metal between two teeth which doesn't allow the vehicle to roll. This should effectively last the life of the transmission. - 360ci

3)   Broken or mis aligned brake switch. Do the brake lights work? Is the car on an incline, if so the weight of the car is resting on the transmission park pawl and you may need to rock it to get the weight off to allow it to go out of park. Push the car with 2 or 3 people, have someone put a block of wood behind the tires each time the car goes forward a bit, that should take the weight off the transmission. - pbleek

4)   You have a broken shifter. Check the owner's manual and it has a section which tells you how to get it out of park when stuck. If you look to the upper right of the shifter you'll find a a small square or rectangular plug. Remove that plug and place a screwdriver or pen into the hole to press down on the pink release lever. If this does not work, then remove the chrome trim from around the shifter and reach below it to move the pink shifter release. Remember, your foot still needs to be on the brake pedal to release. Good luck. - C-Tech


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Question 2
I have a 06 chrysler sebring touring. it was over heating everthing was changed. its still over heating.?...  and now am being told there a non working piston. can that still make it over hear?

Answers
1)   when you say everything was changed, i am assuming you just changed radiator, water pump ect and not the engine itself? yes a 'non working pisto' could overheat the engine if the head gasket is blown at that piston causing it not to produce compression or if is has a hole in it or even if the bearing has gone. - cosworth c

2)   Yes that will make it overheat. How did the mechanic miss that? - C-Tech

3)   Did you check the radiator fan to see if it comes on just below the boiling point? Did you check the head gasket by testing for exhaust gasses in the coolant? Did you replace the radiator or have it cleaned out? I have not heard of a none working piston before and if so, how will it make the engine overheat? - Jackolantern


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Question 3
what is the fuel ratio on a 06 charger 3.5 v6 and 06 300 touring 3.5?...  

Answers
1)   Fuel to what ratio ??? - rick29148

2)   Fuel ratio? You mean fuel economy? www.fueleconomy.gov is a good resource, and since they're the same car, you only have to look up one. - Sean

3)   14% air to 1% fuel at cruising. - Jackolantern


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Question 4
Calling all Mopar guys!!!!?...  Ok guys heres the deal, I Drag race a 1968 Plymouth Barracuda, it is a pretty good running car, if I could get it to hook probably a high to mid 14 second car, however it spins the street tires off the line like crazy!! So my solution is to buy E.T radials for it, NOW MY QUESTION IS??? Has anyone tried to get Any type of ET Radial on a 1968 Plymouth Barracuda, It doesnt have any modifications in the wheel wells and I am just wondering If any one has tried it before, Im thinking of like a 28x9x15 mickey thompsons, but If anyone has any advice lay it on, im just trying to do extra research before i throw down 300$$ for tires.....ALSO if there is a preference between Mickey thompson or hoosier let me know! thanks!!

Answers
1)   I can't help you on this. - circusbouy

2)   I would go with Mickey T's, now my knowlegde on this is only based on avaliblity, it was easier for me to buy MT's over Hoosiers here in Southern Calif. But they did work out great when I ran at Pamona, and haveing talked with guys that ran Hoosiers, they said they liked theirs, do to the fact that the side walls were softer over the MT's - rick b

3)   M.T,s are great tires...Hoosier are also tops on the list...It all comes down to what your preferance is...Different tracks also like different tires....I,d go with the M.T.s...I would stay away from the radial...Bias is the way to go if you want good times at the end of the track...I run M.T.s when I take my 67 b body to the track... - Johnny Rotten


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Question 5
I have a 1996 Plymouth voyager, 3.3 in limp mode with no trouble codes showing?...  It is a late model 1996 voyager with a 3.3 and overdrive transmission in limp mode. Was told it could be the clutches and seals.

Answers
1)   Several things it could be, but any time the trans goes into limp mode the trans computer should store a code for it and turn the check engine light on. If there's a check engine light on, there's a code.

Was it scanned for codes, or just key-cycle tested for codes? A scanner will pull more codes than the key-cycle test does, the key-cycle test is just for basic codes, scanners will go into much more detailed information, and should also be able to read the CVI (Clutch Volume Index, or how much fluid it takes to engage the clutches, which tells it if the clutches are worn out or not).

Clutches and seals being worn out can make it feel like it's slipping, and if the computer detected this can go into limp mode, but it should still record trouble codes indicating the problem.

Best thing for Chrysler transmissions is to take them to the dealer for problems. Not doing so can cost you more than might have been necessary. Reason for that is not all transmission shops are knowledgeable in Chrysler transmissions, and some are just out to sell as many rebuilds or re-manufactured transmissions as possible, using any means necessary (these make more money, smaller repairs don't make as much money).

If you insist on taking it to an independent repair shop or trans specialty shop, there's a few things to keep in mind. Many will offer free diagnostics to get you in the door, this is a ploy to get you in their shop first and foremost. Once in there, some will try to get you to let them tear the transmission down to "diagnose" it further, no charge to tear into it, of course. They will use terminology like "tear into it", "break it down", "go inside the transmission", "disassemble it for further diagnostics", or some similar wording.

That's basically a way to get you stranded there, once they tear into it, they've got you. Sure, they'll tear it down for no cost, but if they tell you it needs rebuilding or replacing, and you want to get a second opinion, then you have to pay them to put it back together (usually plus the tear-down costs). They make this expensive so you won't want to have it towed and will just surrender and have them do the job. There should be no reason they need to tear into the transmission to find out the clutches are worn out, this information is kept in the transmission computer in the CVI numbers. If they pull this tactic on you, tell them no, they cannot go into the transmission, and get your car back and take it to another shop for a second opinion.

Also, if told it needs rebuilt or replaced with a re-manufactured unit, spend the extra money for the re-manufactured unit. They come with better warranties, and the entire transmission is covered under the warranty. If they rebuild it, the warranty is generally only good for a year and only on parts they replaced, where a re-manufactured will usually have a 3 year, 100k mile warranty. - Mark B

2)   You really need to pull the code or codes and sometimes the comp system will have a stored code even though no engine light is on.Example I've seen Dodge's go into the limp mode and no engine light was on , changed the transmission control module=TCM and suddenly the engine light came on , meaning sometimes its a faulty comp causing no engine light to be displayed even though the comp system has put the transmission into the limp mode.

Here are things to watch for all the gauges work but the transmission isn't changing gears thus the rpms are high and you can't drive over 35 miles per hour , plus you'll hear the engine reving.This problem will display a code 45 via the ignition switch or you'll get one of the many P0700 codes via a scanner.This code is usually related to the EATX or transmission solenoid relay that is under the hood in the fuse box on the drivers side.The relay could be faulty or I've found the 12 volt fuse feed going to the relay faulty or pin 85 at the relay has a bad or poor ground wire.Also there is a set of wires that run off pins 16-17 on the TCM they junction off and meet up with other wires that are spliced together down the harness and the other two wire ends go to the harness that runs back to the solenoid pack in the transmission and the other one goes up to the EATX relay.Note these wires are know to rot or corrode at the 4way splice junction I mentioned.Even the TCM can cause the code 45 error if it's faulty or has a bad ground etc.

Next neither one of the speed or rpm gage's might be working this tells you that the TCM might not be getting power at pin 8 or pin 11 red wire that comes from the ignition , one is a constant positive 12 volt ignition switch feed , other the yellow pin 8 wire is just live when the key is turned to start the engine, this is only a turn on signal for the TCM.Pin 56 on the TCM gets it's power from fuse B 20amp under the hood and this fuse is also what feeds the relay I've mentioned it's constant power and fuse A 20amp , also fuse 17 a 5 amp fuse inside the vehicle are what feeds pins 11 and pin8 the ignition power. The fuse info is just what I recall so double check the fuses closely. Pins 53-57 are the TCM ground pins and should have a solid good chassis ground.The speed sensors on the transmission the input and output speed sensors can also cause the rpm and speed gages to go dead and I'd change both they run about 25 bucks a piece at a parts store.




Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I've diagnosed and fixed many different electronic problems especially with Dodge and have done a lot of homework regarding them and all of the misdiagnosed Dodge transmission faults out there.

Note when in the limp mode especially don't drive it much over 3,000 rpms or you'll fry the transmission on it.

If you want more help or advice etc you can email me if you like. - helpful bob


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