My 2002 pt cruiser shakes when u hit highway speeds of about 60-65+?

Question 1
My 2002 pt cruiser shakes when u hit highway speeds of about 60-65+?...  OK, so my 2002 pt cruiser shakes when u hit highway speeds of about 60-65+. It was purchased from some old man that had it garaged and serviced on time. So, it's in perfect condition and the engine runs well. The tires are decent, and when i drive around town, the steering doesn't shake as long as i drive under 60, but when u start to accelerate up in those speeds, it shakes, and u can feel it through out the whole car, the steering, and even the gas pedal. I have not gotten the tires rotated and balanced, but the car is aligned and there's air in the tires also.

Answers
1)   Wheel balancing.
If you feel it in the steering it's the front most likely, but I would get it done by a shop. - Sunny

2)   inspect the tires to make sure one does not have a "bubble" on it. check the front struts one may be bad and is allowing the tire to bounce. - Randy F

3)   The most likely cause of your problem is a bent or unbalanced rim. A flat-spotted tire can also cause this issue. - Kenny

4)   it is possible you have a bad set of tires they can look just fine and still be bad. I had a van do that one time and when i put new tires on it smoothed righr out. You might try moving the back tires to the front and see what happens. - kenny

5)   Wal-Mart charges, like, $20 to have them balance all four tires. - ahanix1989

6)   make sure no tires have any air bubbles. IF its perfectly aligned then there should be know reason for that. But also check your ball joints cause chrysler tend to need new all joints after a few. - Corey


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Question 2
Chrysler recall postcard in the mail- just a ploy to get people into the shop?...  I received in the mail a postcard about my car having a product recall and the name of a local Chrysler shop to get the item replaced free of charge. Is this some ploy to get people into the garage so they can find other "problems" with the car or is this legit?
Hmm, true but the last thing people want to hear is a bunch of other problems with the car and it seems every time there's a list of issues.

Answers
1)   And how would that ploy work?

They can't force you to do anything with your car.

So it's not like they're getting money out of you.

And if they find things, and you decide to ignore it, and it causes problems later....then they can just say "told you so..."

Edit: That's funny, because when I take my cars in for repairs, I don't get a list of issues. Because I take care of my car, and make sure there's nothing that it could need.

What you can always do is take the car to a second mechanic, and if they give you the same list of things.....they're not trying to get money out of you, they're trying to get you to maintain your vehicle better. - Vipassana

2)   It's possible..... Does it actually say a manufacturers recall ?? Does it mention your car correctly ?? If you're leary, go in and ask, don't sign anything, and get a written estimate on the work. Get an estimate even if they say it's free... That way they can't change their minds later. Now, I will also say that I've not heard of a scam like that, but, why take a chance ?? - rick29148

3)   We got one too, for the wiper blade engine on our dodge ram pick up. It's legit, and good customer service. If you don't get it fixed, you might be sorry, and they won't go around checking anything else unless you pay them to. Even if they did you would have to agree to them servicing anything else. - Baby Kingston Born Aug 31st!!

4)   I am sure this is legit, but I have to ask a question, if you have other problems with your car wouldn't you want to have them fixed, most shops tell you whats wrong because that's there job, you are the type of person that if you came into my shop today for an oil change and I noticed your tie rods loose and I didn't tell you because well you dont want to hear and you left and the tie rod end broke and you lost your steering you would sue me and ask why I didn't tell you. I have a piece of advise, dont go to a repair shop drive that car till it falls apart int he middle of the street and then trade it in and buy a new one. - CURT W

5)   call ur chrysler dealer closest and schedule an appointment for the car. Even if its little its a good idea to have it done. - Corey


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Question 3
i have a 1998 chrysler concord need to no if a pcm for a 2.7 work in a 3.2?...  

Answers
1)   95% chance that it won't. There's more to the engines than just bore size. - ahanix1989

2)   Probably not. There should be a label with a part number on each unit. Odds are they won;t match. - badbill1941

3)   Big difference in the PCM's due to being a different engine.




Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way if the two PCM's are different the plug in connectors are usaully different or have a different pin layout or step up etc. - helpful bob

4)   No it won't. Please do not buy a used pcm for this car. depending on the security system it has from the factory you could cause problems with other modules that will need to be replaced! - C-Tech


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Question 4
Brake problems on a 2003 Town and Country Mini Van?...  Brake pedal goes to the floor as if there is a brake line leak but there is no leak anywhere to be found. Will pump up slightly but will be spongy. Fluid level is good but small amount of fluid will dribble out of the the filler cap when the pedal is pumped frequently. I've never experienced this. Anyone have a clue? Thanks, Jack

Answers
1)   Sounds like either a small leak or the master cylinder has gone bad. If the fluid level never goes down then I would think the master cylinder is bad. - papabear

2)   theres probably air in the lines... - Cortidely(B)racin

3)   You have a bad master cylinder it sounds like. - C-Tech


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Question 5
Sebring ASD fuse blowing?...  Working on a 1997 Sebring Convertible, 2.5L V6, that blows the ASD fuse intermittently.
Sometimes in a week - other times two or three times in a single day. I haven't duplicated the problem myself, but the owner seems to think it happens more often if he accelerates hard.
He has several blown 10A fuses that he showed me and the first time he called me when it wouldn't start up about three weeks ago, the blown ASD fuse was the problem.
At that time, I replaced the fuse and thoroughly road testing the vehicle (approx. 15 miles), I gave him a few extra 10A fuses and figured (hoped) it was just a fluke - obviously, it's not.
I have check the associated components and wiring without finding any problems. I even removed the upper plenum and checked the injector harness for any possible problems.
Is there a common problem associated with this concern?
Just in from the garage....I can duplicate this short circuit by revving the engine up in short bursts to wide open throttle.
With an amp gage plugged into the ASD fuse socket, it will intermittantly pin the needle to 40+ amps when I rev it up - it quickly returns to <5A and isn't even long enough to trip a 20 amp circuit breaker - but I'm sure it's long enough to blow a fuse.
I'm going to check the amperage draw on the fuel pump next - it made no difference with the O2 sensor unplugged.
Thanks for the tips.

Answers
1)   The ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relay receives inputs from the engine (crank position sensor and/or distributor and others) and shuts down the ignition and fuel pump if it receives no electrical pulses from the ignition that tells is the engine is running. Basically, if your engine isn't running, it figures out that gas should not be delivered, and it shuts down flow of fuel. I suspect your fuel pump is dying. Under hard acceleration, it would work harder. If it's worn, it's drawing more amperage, which is what would be blowing the fuse. Another more remote possibility is the ASD relay itself, which is in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood.
When the fuse is blown, can the owner hear the fuel pump energize for a few seconds?
If you can find a wiring diagram, I am willing to bet it will point to the fuel pump. - GTCturboII

2)   If it isn't the fuel pump, the other possibility would be a bare spot in one of the wires touching ground occasionally and blowing the fuse. - oklatom

3)   I've seen fuse sockets that have a build up of a invisible dust that can cause intermittent brakes in the circuit therefore blowing the fuse.It was one of the hardest things to detect or find and once I cleaned the socket the problem never did reoccur ever again.Also the relay itself could be faulty internally the circuit could have burnt or damaged copper that causes surges or weak points that causes the fuse to blow.Even the legs or pins on the relay or it's socket connections can cause such problems , also the ground could be acting up or weak.

If anyone of the circuits that the ASD circuit monitors has a bare wire or a melted or frayed wire or a bad ground or device that is drawing too much amps or load due to internal faults etc this will also cause fuse blowing issues too.






Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way over the many long years that I've been serving or fixing electronic or electrical circuits I've run into a very common fault which is everyday wear and tear of circuits and parts or devices that are working but drawing more all due to age.Fixed many circuits that are old by changing wiring or by simply changing the amperage of say a fuse or reset etc.

I'd be very curious to know just how good the ground is in that ASD circuit especially the ground going to the relay. - helpful bob


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