how can I get my 2010 Chrysler 300 Touring AWD to switch back into 2 wheel drive from 4 wheel drive?

Question 1
how can I get my 2010 Chrysler 300 Touring AWD to switch back into 2 wheel drive from 4 wheel drive?...  First snow in Minnesota and the AWD drive kicked in, showing "4 drive" on the instrument cluster. Several days later with the roads clear, cluster still shows "4 drive" instead of "2 drive" and car seems to accelerate a bit slower. Is there a way to reset without a visit to the service dept?

Answers
1)   What does the owners manual say?.......................%%% - **Uncle Jed Sez**

2)   It's probably in the owners manual somewhere. - The Great Brandini

3)   try puting it in neutral and switching it - lilangelsbuddy

4)   Probably is in the owners manual - Jim Chalon


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Question 2
The instrument panel in my 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE has gone dead - none of the instruments function.?...  From web searches it appears as if the body control module has gone bad, and needs repair/replacement. None of the BCM units I see listed on eBay and others look like what I see under the dash, where I see an assembly with the number PO4869141 on the side. My van has electronic locks and windows, which the eBay units seem to preclude. Anyone have any advice?
Thanks.
All fuses are good - in both fuse blocks. The ABS light comes on when the instruments die. This has happened on and off for some time now; last week the panel died and never came back to life. In other iterations, the panel would come back to life when I shut it off and re-started.

Answers
1)   did you check to see if you have a blow fuse ?? - Alfonzo

2)   Have you've tried tapping the dash sometimes if a bad connection this will help to diagnose it.Also many times the dash or cluster or gauge assembly will develop bad connections not just at the plug in connectors or wiring but internally in the soldered circuit boards.So if you can solder circuit boards or know of someone that could it's quite possible all that cluster really needs is to be re-soldered.Otherwise go to a U pull auto wreckers and take one out yourself that should save you cash and at the same time you can hand pick the cluster assembly, just be sure it is just like yours.Plus you might be lucky enough to find a used one that was actually replaced resently and could be fairly new or at least reconditioned.

Another thing that you should keep in mind is the grounds that go to the cluster one could be bad or the ground wires could have bad connections at the other ends where they connect up via wire o-ring connectors to different locals both under and behind the dash assembly etc.



Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way since the cluster assembly has more then likely more then one fuse feeding it and the body control module=BCM also controls the cluster and uses at times the same fuses it could be a ground going to the BCM or the BCM itself could be faulty.Note that if you used a U pull yard you might get the BCM and cluster for 50-100 for both items or even less.Like any item you have to shop around for best prices and for the best possible warranty but most wreckers only offer a full replacement or credit within the first 30 days.The last time I went for a cluster assembly for a Dodge as old as your vehicle is they charged me 20 bucks for it with me pulling the part out myself but thats a rare price most will charge 25-75 for it when you pull it out yourself plus they'd charge on the average about 30-50 bucks for the BCM. Remember the more you buy the more of a deal you can make and don't forget to check out things like extra bulbs, fuses, relays, spark-plug wires, coil packs, belts etc.Some U pull auto wreckers offer a flat price for all you can carry out so keep an eye open for them bec you can get tons of parts all at once for as low prices as 35-50 bucks. - helpful bob

3)   It's needs a instrument cluster. The circuit board on the back of the cluster shorts out. Pretty common on these. - Caddyman


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Question 3
My speedometer on my 2002 chrysler van has stopped working, Is there a fuse or cable to this van?...  It was working fine yesterday, but when it was evening it stopped show MOH. Just wondering if someone knew what it might be...

Answers
1)   The speed sensor at the transmission has probably failed, there is no speedometer cable.

You might want to inspect the connection for corrosion or repairable wire damage before purchasing a new sensor.. - Don't know everything !

2)   Output speed sensor has gone bad. It is located on the side of the transmission. There will be 2 of these sensors. 1 input and 1 output. The tips on the sensors are different. - seymore d

3)   There is No cable for the speed indicator and if it's a dial indicator cluster assembly design then more then likely you can change the speed dial seperately.If you had a speed sensor failer regardless if it's either the input or output sensor the RPM gauge should also be affected.So unless both of those gauges are acting up the problem could be the speed dial or the printed circuit inside the cluster assembly has a bad connection
Note that if the speed sensor or sensor circuits were acting up or causing the speed indicator from not working , the main comp should of detected the sensor fault and the faulty sensor should of caused the PCM to turn the engine light on and there should of been a error code and recorded data involving what had occured during the error.I'd suggest that you have it scanned by a shop or parts store etc for free bec sometimes the engine light won't light up but a error code does exist.
The input speed sensor and the output speed sensor are wired up to the transmission control module via a plug in male/female wiring harness that is by the firewall and leads back to the transmission.I mention these wires bec both the speed sensors share a common wire so instead of 4 wires=two wires per sensor there is only 3 at the harness connector that lead to the TCM and it's possible that they could have a bad connection or damaged wire.Note the 2002 models might be slightly different in the tcm pin chart setup or tcm design but as I recall on those models as in previous much earlier models they all use a 60 pin TCM setup. A rebuilt/programmed TCM/TCU is about 400 bucks and a used one from could cost nywhere from 30-150 buck with you pullimg the part off yourself but again like any company some auto wreckers will try to pull the part themselves or try to order the part for you via other parts or auto wrecking yards.
Here are two of the most common faults involving the Electronic Transmission Control Circuits you'll suddenly feel very high revs and the rpm gage will peek, plus the engine light comes on the vehicle's speed indicator will be dead and so will the rpm indicator. What occurs is the body control module doesn't recieve the right signal from the PCM and TCM and thefore it kills the two circuirs such as the speed/rpm gages.The TCM will have gone into the the limp mode or safe mode and that's why if you do try to drive you'll hear high revs and the vehicle wont want to drive more then 30 miles an hr with quite high rpms.
The next type of fault is when you've experienced much as like above and then both of the speed/rpm gages seem to work but you can clearly see that even at 5mph the rpms seem to be quite above normal and even to built up to 30mph the Rpms are well above 3,000 and that really you only have one forward gear.This is why they call it a safe mode or limp mode bec the transmission control system only allows basically a emergency forward gear to help you get to the nearest service centre and it's vital not to go over 30mph or 60kph and don't allow the rpm gage to go much above 3,000 to 3,500 rpms tops.When you see both gages dead the could be mean that the TCM has some problems in the feed circuits such as the constant positive 12 volt feed and the switchable ignition turn on feed signal.Also it could indicate that either the solenoid pack is faulty or dirsty or the TCM has a poor or weak ground signal or the TCM could be faulty.This is why retriveing the comp system error codes via scanners or diagnostic equioment is vital bec certain codes are obvious clear indicators in deciding what parts or circuits are needed to be looked at or what possible tests or possible repairs are required.
There are some diagnostic equipment tests that involve basic function tests, resistance tests, ect that could help to detect wether or not a speed sensor is faulty.Just note that speed sensors are a very delicate electronic device that works via certain magnetic fields and it's possible they could get dirty.If you do end up replacing any speed sensors either the input or output sensor , always change them both at the same time and use new parts when ever possivle. Remember that their very sensitive so handle them according to the instruction manuals when working with them.There are some aftermarket parts that will work and they can be purchased for around 25 bucks each at most parts stores and at the dealerships you end up paying almost double for them but their the original factory direct replacement part.
Hope that helps and best of luck. By the way note if the TCM/TCU is replaced it's my advice to get them put into the learning mode and most transmission shops or mechanics or dealerships can do this for you and really the dealerships should do it for free especially if they charged for a brand new TCM and installed it.the TCM. - helpful bob


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Question 4
am i covered by 3year warranty?...  I have a Ford Fiesta car reg January 2009 ; water has leaked into the boot via the seals.under the spare tyre are the seals covered by ford 3 year warranty?

Answers
1)   Ask a Ford dealer. - mick s

2)   I'd have thought so, but as the other guy says, the only way to know for sure is to ask a Ford dealer. - EvelynThe ModifiedDog.


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Question 5
Chrysler Grand Voyager SE 2000?...  I was driving my van had it cruise control going 40 and it kinda acted like i pressed on the breaks and slowed down i look at what gauges i do have and the check engine light came on! I then drove back home bc i was in the middle of no where it didnt even shift gears got up to 4 and i slowed it down when it got up to 4 i smelt something burning, its not even trying to shift but it still drives, i just had these things replace, water pump, tension belt, thermostat, starter. Could one of these things been placed in here wrong or is it what i fear and its the transmission? Man im a single mom and my car is my job and ugh i just dont want it to be the transmission...........

Answers
1)   It may be the trans, however the trans may not need replacing. There are speed sensors on the trans which may have failed and need replcing. Check the trans fluid level, it could be low due to a leak. Good luck. - C-Tech

2)   sounds like the transmission went into "limp in" mode. If your lucky, it will be as simple as a sensor gone bad. More often than not, it becomes more serious. You're going to have to have it checked out.
Good luck! - seymore d


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