Thursday, April 1, 2010

What is the best mod to get the most power out of my car for under $50?

Question 1
What is the best mod to get the most power out of my car for under $50?...  I have a 1978 Chrysler Cordoba with a 360ci and I am on a budget and was wondering how I could get more power out of it for cheap? Thanks in advance.

Answers
1)   Nothing.

Nothing under $50 will provide any power at all to your car.

Seriously. - Vipassana

2)   buy some flame stickers and put them on the fenders behind the wheels.. - Bubski

3)   Fresh set of plugs and a cheap timing light is about all you are going to get for around that kind of money. You would be surprised how much power that could add in a poorly tuned car.

(Cool old car BTW) - The Freak Show

4)   If you have a tow hitch, you could get one of those plug in motorboat fan blades. That should increase your aerodynamics and add at least .05 hp.

I kid of course. Under 50 bucks? Not a thing. You can't even get a tune up for that, and even more efficient spark plugs (which would be under 50) would require a good tune afterward. - Helper Monkey

5)   $50?????? are you F U C K I N G kiding me? absolutly nothing except a drop in K&N air filter to give like 1 hp - None

6)   you can make sure the airfilter is clean, put a snorkel system to get fresh air in sealed, and use some fuel additive octane booster. Don't drive any weight around your not using and give it 3 degrees of advance. turn the distributor just a tad counterclockwise. - Joseph

7)   for under $50 is tough, i would try a cold air filter (maybe it is a little more depends on the car) but if you cant afford that use seafoam. Seafoam will clean your fuel systems, if you are not familiar with it go on youtube and look up videos or ask a guy in your parts store. I have done it to older cars and the car gains some of the lost horsepower and drives much smoother - ahmedniu


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Question 2
my 98 voyager is stuck in first gear what can i check?...  

Answers
1)   The warp nacells, then the plasma conduits. - Megabonceace

2)   The transmission fluid would be a start. Never change it though. Only add it, if needed. - Hear No Evil

3)   Transmission fluid, in park with the engine running - Frank Bama

4)   Nothing, get the trans rebuilt - rick b

5)   Is the engine light on, are you getting any codes, did you check the transmission fluid level?I'd do that and get back to us.



Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way once you get the code or codes I'd try disconnecting the battery for awhile and then seeing if the transmission starts shifting again. - helpful bob


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Question 3
how do i remove the inside door panel, 1998 plymouth grand voyager to repair the power window?...  the screws come out easily but the panel doesn't budge, are there clips involved?

Answers
1)   Be sure that you got all the screws out bec screws can be hidden by or under the door handles etc.

Yes there are a series of plastic clips that hold the panel to the door. There is tool that is suited for this job and your parts store will likely have one.



There is no diagram that shows there specific location, but there will about 10 them around the perimeter of the panel.



For what it is worth, here are the removal instructions in the service manual.



1. Remove the plug and remove screw attaching door pull cup to inner door panel.
2. Remove switch bezel and disconnect power window/memory switch.
3. Remove screws attaching trim panel to door from below map pocket.
4. If equipped, remove window crank.Remove screw holding door trim to door panel from behind inside latch release handle .
5. Disengage clips attaching door trim to door frame around perimeter of panel.
6. Lift trim panel upward to disengage flange from inner belt molding at top of door.
7. Tilt top of trim panel away from door to gain access to latch linkage.
8. Disengage clip attaching linkage rod to inside latch release handle Separate linkage rod from latch handle.
9. Disconnect the power door switch, courtesy lamp electrical connectors.
10. Remove front door trim panel from vehicle.



Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way check the window switch and ground closely too bec it could need cleaning with a wire brush etc.I'd advice you to pick up that tool and some extra clips bec they usually brake etc and it's best to have solid clips when reattaching the door panel. - helpful bob

2)   Is your Jeep Grand Cherokee Power window's acting up? Can you not open your window's when you want to get your fast food. You can hear the motor turning but the window doesn't move or is falling down? Chances are that your regulator is damaged. You can get one online and change it yourself in under an hour to save some serious $MONEY$. You can purchase a strong and durable OEM (ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURES) regulator/motor for about $120 I prefer OEM over aftermarket simply because the aftermarket is cheaply made and do not last the excessive wear of everyday use and will fail in a short period of time. Dealers charge around $400 for the same OEM part!)

Here are step-by-step instructions on how to change your window regulator. My model is specifically a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. 1999-2000 models are compatible and the 2001-2004 are compatible.Make sure you get your right Jeep vehicle year because the regulator/motors change

Tools needed for the job:

New regulator Needle-nose pliers Socket wrench: 10mm, and 1/4 sockets Screwdriver (phillips, flat, and medium-sized torx bits) some rags: STEPS:

1. Take off the door panel. You will find 3 screws. One in the armrest, one behind a plastic cover near the sideview mirror, and a torx screw underneath the door handle - just pry it up like you're opening the door and unscrew.

2. Use your long flathead screwdriver or other similar tool to carefully pry the plastic panel away from the door frame. Careful you don't break it. There are a bunch of plastic clips that attach it - you will break some of these so don't worry. You can always order some replacements for cheap.

3. Now disconnect everything attached to the panel: power window cable, mirror cable, and door and lock controls. Once you get all the cables disconnected, look for the tiny plastic clasps over the cover of the metal rods for the door and lock mechanisms. Gently push up and turn the plastic rings slightly to the side and the rods should pull straight up.

4. Remove the speaker (4 screws and a connector plug).

5. Remove the vapor barrier. This is just a giant black plastic cover that sits between the door and the plastic panel. Ease it off and try to keep all the black adhesive attached so you can reuse it to reattach it later.

6. Pull out the interior rubber seal/guard that sits in the bottom window groove - just pry it up and pull it out. Leave the one on the outside of the car alone. You may have a piece of foam at each end like I did - if so, make sure you keep them.

7. Look inside the hole to find the regulator. Probably easier to see if the window is down at this point. Notice the two nobs from the window that attach to the regulator, there is a metal clip holding it to the plastic receiver. Pull out the pin on both sides.

8. Carefully dislodge the window from the plastic nobs. Once you do this, nothing will be holding the window.You can hold up the window with two pieces of masking tape.Place them on them on the window and over the frame and place other side of tape on other side of window.

9. With the window removed from the regulator, it's time to manuever it out. With it inside the door, turn it almost upside down so the bottom of the window comes out the top first. Otherwise you won't be able to remove it from the door. Be careful

10. Disconnect the plug attaching the power/controls to the window motor.

11. Remove the 4 screws holding the regulator onto the door. (The upper left one should just be loosened so it will hang-in-place). Do the same for the motor (3 screws).

12. Now dislodge the entire regulator/motor assembly from the screw holes and tilt it sideways inside the door. Slowly maneuver it to the hole below the speaker and pull the assembly out.

13. Remove thewindow regulators 3 screws on the motor connecting it to the regulator.

14. Line up the new regulator the same way the old one was connected.It should align perfectly.

15. Install everything in the reverse order.

Things to remember!!!

When reattaching the plastic panel, it will work better if you take out all the plastic clasps that are stuck in the metal part of the door and insert them in their proper place in the plastic panel. That way you can bang the panel onto the door and they will lock in place in the holes of the door frame. Once you get the new motor/regulator assembly back in, you can grab your door panel, hold it nearby, connect the power cables and test it before putting the window back in and reconnecting everything. The window should go up/down with no problem. When you get the window back in, don't forget to reinstall the pins that hold's the window in place Good luck! And pat yourself on the back for a job well done. (POWER WINDOW SYSTEMS IS OUR SPECIALTY) - Dewayne

3)   Yes there are a series of plastic clips that hold the panel to the door. There is tool that is suited for this job and your parts store will likely have one.



There is no diagram that shows there specific location, but there will about 10 them around the perimiter of the panel.



For what it is worth, here are the removal instructions in the service manual.



1. Remove the plug and remove screw attaching door pull cup to inner door panel.
2. Remove switch bezel and disconnect power window/memory switch.
3. Remove screws attaching trim panel to door from below map pocket.
4. If equipped, remove window crank.Remove screw holding door trim to door panel from behind inside latch release handle .
5. Disengage clips attaching door trim to door frame around perimeter of panel.
6. Lift trim panel upward to disengage flange from inner belt molding at top of door.
7. Tilt top of trim panel away from door to gain access to latch linkage.
8. Disengage clip attaching linkage rod to inside latch release handle Separate linkage rod from latch handle.
9. Disconnect the power door switch, courtesy lamp electrical connectors.
10. Remove front door trim panel from vehicle. - brumal


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Question 4
Why is my 1999 Chrysler LHS is stopping and not starting?...  I recently purchased a 1999 Chrysler LHS. It was great until one day my car died while I was driving on the freeway, so I pulled over and noticed all my lights and air were still on (along with the little oil can and cruise control light)... So I though it couldn't be my battery since i just bought a new one as well. I restarted the car and it wouldn't turn over?? So I got very nervous and continued to try and get it to turn over and eventually it did!! I took my car to a mechanic and he suggested the Fuel pump, so I had it fixed and the car is still doing the exact same thing... it will also not start even when its not in use like when i try to start it in the morning for work it will not start sometimes and take a while to start.It will die out and sometimes take long to turn over, or sometime it will turn over on the first try, the car doesn't overheat, good battery, new fuel pump I am very confused.. even my friends and family members who know a lot about cars are stumped. Also it was reading a code for the EGR valve stating the outputs are to high, we took it off cleaned it and it is still stopping. I noticed that it has been getting worse and we have several thing to try and fix the problem I need help PLEASE!!

Answers
1)   well this sounds like a case of vapor locking....that happened to my 95 corolla and i just had to sell it to get a new car....by the time you fix all the little things (fuel line, fuel pump, battery, alternator) and stuff you might as well get a new one anyways. - kyle w

2)   It's old. Its 2010 now, so that means your car is 11 years old. When older cars stop working it just means you need to get a new one. When you bought it, was it already used? If so thats why(old). But if it wasn't, take it in to a shop, and let them tell you whats wrong. - Chewyy

3)   consider this a lesson learned. avoid chryslers. they will bankrupt you for sure! - Barancy Peloma


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Question 5
So I have not had a problem with 08 pt cruiser until yesterday!?...  So I have not had a problem with 08 pt until yesterday! I was driving and the battery light came on then the airbag light and the car died. I checked the volts and all was good then I took it to an auto parts store and the battery and alternator are fine. Then tis morning the battery light came on while I was driving and the car lost power for a second but did not die what can b the problem?

Answers
1)   sucks but i would take it to the dealer because sounds like a typical Chrysler electrical issue.
here's a good forum u can search & ask for PT owners to see if others have had this issue. maybe you can get it fixed at a regular place if u can narrow down the issue.
not sure how that engine works.
are the belts all in tact? at least make sure the alternator belt did not snap and break off. - ricardo9505

2)   The voltage regulator is probably acting up on it and I believe it's located inside the main comp on those vehicles but check the belts , check the grounds , the battery terminals etc for something loose or corroded etc.


Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way that vehicle should be under factory warranty if it's a 2008. - helpful bob

3)   the battery has whats called a battery temperature tensor connected to it. This tells the computer exactly how much juice to pull from the alternator based off the battery temp. The temp of the battery determines how much juice it can pump out (just basic physics), so the alternator needs to come up with just the right amount to power the car and keep the battery charged without overloading the system. It could also be a loose wire. Clean your terminals and battery cables and make sure they are on tight. Follow the negative and make sure it is grounded out tight. Check the positive cable into the battery and make sure the connection is tight. (see where im going here). So make sure all connections are clean and tight. If no luck, change that battery temp sensor. If still no luck, we could have a bad starter solenoid, or a voltage regulator. The voltage regulator is part of the PCM though, so it cannot be worked on or replaced, you can only replace the whole PCM. - DodgeDude


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